Wednesday, November 21, 2007
On a pilgrimage, we meet ourselves and we meet God too. A pilgrimage strengthens one's soul. In life, we must not pass ourselves by. We must live completely. Head on with our true self.
This is so true. Have I not said this in my other posts? On Gossamer?
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
He took me up to the bell tower at the church and let me see the entire valley and hillsides. He had me help with dinner.
The funniest part is he had me translating to/for him with the English speaking pilgrims - like I speak Spanish with any fluency!! (I'm working on that).
He was a wonderful man (and he can cook!) who helped me on a very sad day.
I have made this dinner twice now for my friends - I brought much home - thanks to him!
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
"Looking at the feet you gave me, the lapel pin with the three feet, 'm thinking of giving them away to a friend who is going to walk the camino next year. I already gave her a shell this summer and when I'm are going to meet her again I'm intending to give her the feet under with the best wishes and the desire that if she completes her camino, she'll pass the feet to another Pilgrim. This way, or that way? - the feet always will be walking with one pilgrim or another. Do you give me permission to give through your present? I think it's better for them to move than to lay on my desk, don't you think so. Of course I'll make a photograph of them before saying goodby!"
This is so beautiful!
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Here are some clues:
wife named Lilly
Was going to Leon to meet Lilly and complete Camino with her at another time.
Described as the fast walker
Hung out with Cedric and Jorg
Caught up with me on many a morning (I left early) and would walk with me for a town or two.
Gracias and thank you!
Monday, November 12, 2007
The Lord is my Shepherd; I shall not want. (I had everything I needed - it came to me.)
He maketh me to lie down in green pastures: (I had several rests beside the road, in the beauty of the countryside. I revel in the sunrises and sunsets, still.)
He leadeth me beside the still waters. (I dipped my feet in cold, refreshing streams and drank of the purest water.)
He restoreth my soul (I am touched by the Camino and the joy that prevails in my heart.)
He leadeth me in the paths of righteousness for His name' sake. (Humanity was at its best on the Camino.)
Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, (I walked alone, and sometimes in the darkness of of the morning, and I felt safe.)
For thou art with me; (Not a moment did I doubt it.)
Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me. (My walking stick was my strength when I had none, my trust when I needed some.)
Thou preparest a table before me in the presence of mine enemies;Thou annointest my head with oil; My cup runneth over. (We, of all nations and beliefs, shared food together).
Surely goodness and mercy shall follow me all the days of my life, (I pray the Camino stays in my heart) and I will dwell in the House of the Lord forever (and the faith I have so deeply felt, will nourish me forever).
The non-answer is within the question itself.
The answer is that it hasn't been my time. I have been, for a time, for others. What a lovely gift to have been given, of being a gift. As perplexing as this sounds, I will bet that you, my Camino friends will understand.
Friday, November 09, 2007
We will have tapas, polvorones, manchego cheese, goat cheese, salad, almonds, tarta de Santiago, membrillo, chocolat de Santiago, fig spread, pan, the dinner made in Granon, and wines from Navarra, Rioja, Castilla y Leon, and Galacia.
I'ts been fun to night to decorate, review my pictures and put Spanish flashcards around the house.
The camino stays with me and I like it!
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Monday, November 05, 2007
People are still asking me about my trip. The walking, the spiritual gifts, my Camino friends, the country, the lessons, the memories, have not left me.
It actually grows within me. While once the Camino was merely a thought, then a dream, then a reality (and sometimes a pain in the footsie), then a memory, the lessons learned have become a reality of my days. A part of me.
I'm not perfect and in real life I stumble being the person I was called to be on the Camino. But, I've been changed and for the most part it has stuck with me. As did my friends from here while I was on the Camino and have my Camino friends since we parted.
It is beautiful.
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Saturday, October 27, 2007
But from my experience with myself and, I think, those around me - most everyone simply reflected and planned.
Many people I met were divorced, divorcing or widowed. Everyone mentioned their familial status and also, very candidly discussed the joys or pains of arriving there. (Ironically, job fields were also mentioned but job titles or roles were never discussed). They also used the time to sort out what they "really wanted" next.
Personally, I "studied" all my friends, family members and ex's, spending time praying for them, reflecting on our bonds and qualities, thinking about bettering a current relationship or learning from the past and in some cases mentally "letting go". There was not a second of bitterness or anger present. Trust me, there were days of contemplation about individuals.
What I found to be deeply moving was that with this raw candidness, many of us formed a bond unlike any other I've ever experienced. Because The Camino is so physically and emotionally rigorous and the pairing of souls became so profound, I believe it is fair to say we all fell a little bit in love. We have collected soulmates from around the globe.
Back in the "real world", with the rest of the world not knowing The Camino world exists, this benevolent filter becomes thinned and is sometimes difficult to activate. For the most part though, I came back with a new perspective and opportunity to look at all things and people in a different and more peaceful way. And too, I have wonderful new friends with whom I can converse and slip back onto the Camino and again restore my soul when needed.
Friday, October 26, 2007
Anne (Paris) and Jorge and I walked together for a couple of days. We visited the monestary in Najera together.
Jorge, being from Spain, was our Camino botanist showing us all the things we could eat from the flora along the trail. He ate it first so we followed along. He was also the guy with the long legs who "borrowed" part of my bunk one night having being designated (assigned bunk numbers) as my upper bunk mate.
This being a travel year for him (electronic study break from his teaching position) he's off to Germany, Holland and Belgium here soon.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
"Got to Santiago on 13th Oct - exactly 6 weeks and I walked every step of the way! I thought about you every day and will always remember how you said "Fly little bird, fly" when I set out that 1st morning. There's so much I want to tell you but there are no coincidences only miracles, and the best involves Dominique."
Her Dominique story was one of those chance encounters of meeting up with her after many days of not seeing her....somewhat like me with a different Dominique, Harald, Marlena, Tania and of course, Denise herself.
She mentioned in another email of ongoing Camino dreams - I had those as well!
I'm still basking in the physical and spiritual miracles of it all.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
He wrote today: " Today something unbelivible happend: I drove with 2 older ladies (from Germany, 61 & 63 years) per rent-car from Santiago to Muxia and Finisterre to see the Atlantic Ocean before flying home on Thursday. In Finisterre we all stopped in a small Bar/Restaurant at the harbour. The two ladies ordered a coffee which doesn't came. So I went into the Bar to reorder. At the Bar there was a man - drinking a Cognac and smoking a cigar - - - Joop!!! Absolute unbelivible. We met the last time in Viana (mid of September !!!). He arrived in Finisterre this morning - per feet ... Yes, the way's of God are unpredictable - and wonderfull !!! What an end for our both Camino's."
Yes, truly this is God's way. We all crossed paths so many times. These two were "the Spain team" keeping me going.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
I met Juergen while having my morning snack between Granon and Belorado. I ran into him again at San Juan de Ortega and we walked together for a few days and hung out until he delivered me safely at the bus "estacion" my last morning in Burgos.
Tuesday, October 09, 2007
Here's Joop's account of the Camino: http://gaviota.shareyourstory.nl/. He has some breathtaking pictures displayed.
Sue has written two camino books and done a DVD. I hadn't read them before I went, but I intend to now. Check out the video clip on her site. In minutes it captures what it will take you hours to read here. And the guy singing is Miro - his 10th camino. He was at Eunate when I was and in several towns after that.
Saturday, October 06, 2007
Friday, October 05, 2007
Last week at this time I was leaving Madrid, making my way home.
This week I'm back at work and getting emails from my Camino friends. The emails are originating from Spain, France, Germany and the Netherlands. Some forgetting I don't speak mulitple languages LOL! (Thank goodness for online translaters).
The common thread in those emails: 1) Almost there! or 2) Wish we were back there!
Yet another gift of the Camino
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Remember that my hiking poles didn't make it over? Because of that I bought a stick in St. Jean Pied de Port. I found the height I needed. It had a little leather cord on the top, a metal pokey bottom, and a scallop shell engraved on upper part of the pole. It was not a finished wood, but it was sanded smooth, still retaining it's natural tree limb bumps.
This stick practically carried me when I could barely walk (the blister thing). When the going got rough, it steadied me. Down was a dream, up was a lift. I left it here, I left it there. It was always waiting. (Then I learned how to prop it with the pack and we stuck together pretty well.)
Most every hurdle with the trip I handled like "no big deal". This, however, was tapdancing with my psyche. I really, really, really wanted it back. To me it was going to be something I could hand down to one of my grandkids, like Dad had given me his pack.
The airline was fabulous, really and no kidding. They took my report and checked to see if it made it but was unusual enough that it was hiding in the plane hold (before I ever left the airport). They called every day after that, checking details, asking questions and letting me know they were still looking and would check after each arrival.
Today they called saying it was in Houston (???) and would arrive in SLC by 2pm. At 4pm the delivery service called for more details on my house location.
My stick is here.
And now, seeing it, and holding it, all those miles that seemed so surreal and dreamlike are now very validated. The stick brought the journey home.
Stop by, I'll tell you the story behind that walking stick propped up in the corner. :)
A week ago today I entered Santiago. By my calculations you should all be arriving in the next few days or week. I'm thinking about you all. I admire (and envy) you for the distance you have traveled. I hope that you, like me, feel the joy that I felt upon entering the Cathedral and the thanksgiving that lept from my heart for having had the calling, faith, courage and stamina to arrive there.
Jerry, Anne, I will continue to think about you warmly, knowing your camino completion is in your future. I can't wait to hear the stories.
Dominique, Kayleen, Penny, Ziggy - It was fabulous to have you at the finish line with me. How fortunate it was to have us all intersect AGAIN!
You have all, so very, very deeply, touched my soul and changed my life forever. I thank you for being such a part of my Camino.
Monday, October 01, 2007
And I'm updating willy nilly. A thought or place comes to mind and I hunt down the picture and update...so don't even bother trying to figure out where to begin. If you look now too, it will mostly be people pictures and not scenery. I'm recalling all the friendships. I promise there's a lot of places to see. I just need to keep plugging along.
I'm going back to work tomorrow so this will be an evening and weekend project. I'll send out an email when it is complete.
If you're reading this and I don't know you, clicking on my profile and the email link will provide you with my address. Write to me and let me know you'd like to be notified of the completion.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
It is very cool - they list your first name in Latin!
I got mine on Tuesday afternoon! How exciting that it was so close to this milestone!
Saturday, September 29, 2007
I've been unpacking, happily putting this away upstairs and that away downstairs and up and down and up and down. My house has become a Teri treadmill! (Or Teri has become a gerbil.) I'm still thinking to myself in Spanish. And I do realize this awake stint has to last in until 9pm or so tonight (UTAH). No siestas for this girl.
I tried to put one of my dress pumps on - hahaha. I won't be doing the "proper" shoe thing at work for a few days. It will be ahwile before I can be Cinderella.
I have some walking things I can do today...wash the car (boy does it get dirty sitting in the carport for a month), walk to the runners store (that sounded funny) and thank them for their assistance with stuff for the trip and walk to the outdoors store and RAVE to the man that sold me my pack and later helped adjust it. That pack was totally an appendage of me during the trip. It carried a great load at times and very, very well.
My hiking sticks made it back to the US. The other things in the box (which I smartly put in a plastic bag) had leaked and melted all to heck. I didn't even try to work with them - straight into the trash. My hiking stick from Spain made it to Newark, but not to Salt Lake City. I PRAY that they find it and get it to me. This stick was the saving grace of my trip.
This weekend I plan to PARTY with my friends (they had one ready for my arrival until my plane was way way way delayed), fix the spelling errors and update this site with some details that were too cumbersome to outline on the Treo and of course, add pictures!, chat with the kids and Julie and little Miss Nora.
I keep wanting to eat, eat, eat. Gonna have to nip that in the bud starting NOW! I made coffee - yuck. Get this, I sit down to look up a recipe of the tortilla de patatas that I fell in love with and Pieter had just posted it in the last few days. No hunting there. I went on and hunted down some other tapas recipes. I promised the wine club that I would do the honors in Oct. or Nov. and we'd have a Spain theme. I'm ready!
Happiness: Toilet paper and hair conditioner and water in a glass.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
I'm at the bus station, leaving in about an hour for Madrid. What a beautiful adventure this has been. I read my journal today and even with "re-living" it, it doesn't seem real.
I never felt alone on the Camino even though most of the 270+ miles were solo. Faith and my friends & kids back home filled my heart and my head. I feel absolutely isolated in the fact that so few people in the US have done this and I feel like I have a big fat secret. I'm not sure I will ever be able to adequately share the mystery (without sounding like a lunatic).
I had too much time on my hands today and found an antique bookstore. My achilles heel. I found the Codex Calixtinus in Spanish, a perfect, unworn copy. (I'm always carting books home!) The shopkeeper gave me a 1911 printing of Austen's Persuasion (Spanish) as a gift.
I went to the Cathedral early this morning to offer my thanks for the Camino, Nora, Dwight's healing, my friends, family, etc. I saw the full moon set and the sun rise. I sat on the church steps and felt the sun's warmth and later the heavy clouds racing by overhead. I watched the pilgrims arrive, seeking the church and pilgrim's office as I had.
Every day I loved greeting the elderly locals in Spanish and watching their faces light up in surprise.
(From my Treo)
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
I finally managed to get a hot meal tonight when I wanted it. I used the system-ordered lunch late. Pimientos de Pardón. I ordered my entire meal in Spanish (and knew what I was ordering) and responded to the questions. I even correced the owner on the bill because he was undercharging me..in Spanish!
Two things have changed with the region change..tortilla (which is different than the US version too) and pimiento which was a red pepper in Navarra and is now a little green chili in Galacia.
I bought some relish picks today that represent Galacia. The shopkeeper wrote the names of all the items for me. An explained what each item was used for in the home or while farming.
I'm obsessed with the horreos and actually bought a figurine of one. I I was almost a German Shepherd's lunch yesterday for stopping long enough to shoot a pic of one with a date on it. I sat by the gal at Mass today that was walking by a the same time - by the way how does that happen? 500 people at Mass and we find each other. This has happened a thousand times on the Camino.
My last night here. Tomorrow night is bus sleeping.
Thanks to all who did and tried to join the webcam jam that was fun! (I'll add the video eventually!)
(From my Treo)
I'm keeping close to the Cathedral today - it is very much a CamIno area and let's me hang on just a bit. I love my room and the fact it is in the heart of it all.
I did laundry this morning for the last time by hand. I took that in too.
I bought probably the last amount of mystery food from te trip - looked a bit like potato salad. It was that and more! It included tuna, surimi, green olives, egg, carrots, corn, peas and God knows what else. I found my beloved cookies yesterday on the way into the city. I have to be careful now, I can't keep eating like a pilgrim. I'm not walking 10-20 miles a day!
I have my bus ticket o Madrid for tomorrow night and Friday afternoon I fly home. PS Delta has been WONDERFUL to me on this whole trip.
My three days in Santiago will have been a wonderful, relaxing ending to the experience of a lifetime!
See you at the fountain in a few!
(From my Treo)
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
2. If the nearby bunkmate is noisy, you'll break an eardrum with the iPod before you can drown them out.
3. Music can put a nice punch to your pace, but you just get hungrier sooner and then have to STOP and get food out of your pack.
4. Miracles of Santiago and John Denver's nature and love songs are great for "the hike".
5. I had several clocks for the various timezones. It was nice coming home to know Spain, East Coast and Mountain Time.
But...where it was almost a catastrophy was when I was near Santiago and I was be bopping along. I jumped out of the way because I thought a car was bearing down on my behind. It was loud and fast! It wasn't a car it was a jet...we were were next to a runway that was obscured by a little forest. Thought I was toast there for a moment!!
(From my Treo)
I did the cool thing and let one of the local ladies find me. They find the Pilgrims near the Cathedral and offer to rent rooms for just a few Euro a night. I still have to forage for my own food and do laundry in a tub, but the bathroom is next door and I only have to share it with a couple of rooms.
Speaking of food. I tried to eat at 7:00 and the place wouldn't do dinner until 8:00 so I tracked down a grocery store and still had ham and cheese on bread. I'm so tired and cold that I just want to snuggle down and sleep until daylight. (A camino joke.) The HOT private shower was a treat too!
Tomorrow is climbing to the top of the Cathedral, the Pilgrim's Mass, touristy stuff, SHOPPING, hot food and travel arrangements.
AND at 9am Utah time I'll be at the fountain on the webcam. If you want to see proof of destination, please join http://www.crtvg.es/cgi-bin/camweb/camaras.asp?id=8&idioma=galego
Thanks for all your support. I couldn't have done it without you!
(From my Treo)
Monday, September 24, 2007
I am excited. This has been the bestest adventure ever! Thanks to all of you who have been posting on this site and have been sending me emails. I couldn't have done it without your support.
(From my Treo)
Sunday, September 23, 2007
This morning I got to be a part of moving the dairy cows from the barn to the pasture. The guidebooks ask us to wait for the animals. The owner told me to go. So the Bessies and I wandered down the road together. Cows weave. The woman was concerned, since it was early, that I hadn't eaten. I didn't know how to tell her I had...twice already.
If I knew there would be places to stay, I would crank my mileage and finish Tuesday. Each day, pretty much, I still find a Camino gift along the way. The pilgrims are different now and there are more: those that only had a week or two. They don't have the same "I got broken and healed" manner to them. This is hard for me to adjust to. Example: the bunkbed slats and bathrooms have graffiti, sometimes very crude. I guess I'm just saying I have to look harder to find the simple graces. They are still here and I have found them, but they aren't "presenting" themselves as they have the last few weeks.
Down to 50 km to go!
(From my Treo)
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Tomorrow is Sunday which means today required grocery shopping. I have been looking for a bakery to get those great cookies that Jurgen kept buying for me in Burgos.
My shadow is smaller. I gave my shorts a hitch up today and could see my whole feet down through the waistband.
I should be to Santiago on Wednesday!
Blessed Domingo/Sunday to you! (Manana)
(From my Treo)
Friday, September 21, 2007
I learned night hiking last year with Pat and Mt. Timp. Itls funM but a little daunting alone. IF, in my case, I remain open in thought, I lknow when I need to be looking for turns....my heart tells me there's an arrow I need to find.
This morning was a combination of road and forrest hiking in the dark.
I saw the Milky Way for the first time in my life. In perfect silence and crystal clarity in all its glory, with no city light competition.
In the forrest there were owls hooting..
I heard the morning first crow of the rooster in a tiny hamlet.
And I saw the morning mist form and begin to rise out of the valleys, all in perfect silence. Did you know that when one is still and not moving, the mist will surround you (for me it was like an embrace)?
And I got "footprinted" yesterday by an exhausted woman -I just held her while she was cying. Another couple doule bunked so she could have a bed (the albruge was full). She made braided bracelets for her angels. I wear it with great love and understanding.
(From my Treo)
Share my vision folks: between 10 and 100 men every night and most are running around in their skivvies. Now imagine Hagreth (sp Harry Potter) and Jack Sprat wndering by, lower bunk eye level. See what I mean? It is a bit disconcerting when one of the wearers is your bunkmate and you've only just met over unpacking you mochillas.
OK so the view is sometme OK, but the math favors "eeeew".
(From my Treo)
Thursday, September 20, 2007
(From my Treo)
Every half kilometer there is a stone marker stating the distance to Santiago. Kind of like a New Year's countdown or a Spanish version of 100 bottles of beer on the wall.
It is early in the day. I am in Ferreiros. A little nowhere village with an alburgue. I am NOT going to pound out the km...I have time to take in every birdy chirp that is sent in my direction.
Earlier today I left a note in the stone hermitage for my Camino friends. Hopefully my spirit will call to them to stop and read my note as they pass by and know that I, in turn will be cheering them on.
This photo was taken at the 100km marker. The OFFICIAL spot marking the 100km's to Santiago that earn a Compostela.
(From my Treo)
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
I passed some beautiful scenery today on the train. I know I'll return to do this some more and again. This is peace. I have found me.
Sometime between know and then I'll find the Santiago webcam site so I can coordinate a time to wave at all of you!
(From my Treo)
Now I did not attend Catholic school, but I can say, I've been smacked up the side of the head by a nun. My Spanish enunciation is not up to snuff. She made me read the newspaper out loud. To me, that's the easy part. I haven't a clue what I was reading about! When two more nuns joined her, I offered my seat. No way was I going to subject myself to a triple training lesson.
(From my Treo)
No bus to where I wanted to go. I had briefly spoken to a girl who was going to Sarria. She bolted out of the bus station after going to the ticket counter.
When I found out that I could only go so far, I checked HER destination in my book. 2 days west. Ah hah! I went back to the counter and asked for her destination. I still got a "no" but got what I was looking for....why she left. The train! Then I had to find the station, which was easy by looking at the mapa outside the autobus estacion. A quick check in my phrasebook and I had the train schedule and ticket
The train doesn't leave for 6 hours and then has one change later in the day. So I'll cover two weeks of footwork today.
It is very cold here. Hearing utterances of snow. But the sky is clear. I bought pants last night so I'm ready should this become part of the adventure.
112 km to go! While I will have NOT done 800km, I will have over half. That is nearly 300 miles! Can you freaking believe it. At a miracle a day that isn't bad at all!
(From my Treo)
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Because I need to be there so early tomorrow and it isn't on the camino route where there will be a lot of pilgrims roaming about early, Jurgen will walk me to the station and then restart his camino on foot.
(From my Treo)
Mr. D - has known me the longest, the best, and loved me the most! Every day of knowing him is a gift and a joy.
The other princess....how I look forward to our Saturday calls! I miss you so very much. Thanks for all your support, long distance hugs and ears.....you´ve listened to so much.
Congratulations to Jules and Brian for bringing little miss Nora into this world. She is blessed by having two of the most loving people I have ever known for parents. Jules....I hope she gives you all the joy you have given me for the last couple of decades.
Randi, Diana, Blaine, Brian, Steve, Julie B, Gina, Daniel, Denise, Shanna and everyone else....thank you so much.
To everyone - the humanity present on the Camino gives me hope that we can save the world!
I needed some things in order to continue my journey. I DID NOT seek out the airport today as I was ready to do. I did get the bus schedule to Leon and from there will find something (donkey?) that will take me to the finishing line starting point.
Because I have to haul all my shopping treasures (no Paul) there a few things I have purchased. Along the Nativity line I have two that I´ve collected along the way....a postcard of a nativity scene and the tiniest nativity scene I´ve ever set eyes on. Smaller than a thimble full of the familia and 2 donkeys.
Thanks to my "almost bailed again" supporters and the peregrinos who show up just in time and know just what to say ¨you´ll be in Santiago inside of a week - how wonderful!¨ I get all the comments you´ve all posted on here. They are my strength and either end my day filled with joy or start my morning with smiles and hugs. I love you all so very, very much. And I truly think of you every inch of the way!
Monday, September 17, 2007
Fortunately the Princess know knows enough Spanish now to ask the maid how to turn on the lights!
(From my Treo)
Neat thing...one isn't supposed to be outside in a lightening and thunder storm right? What happens when you have no choice? You're literally in the middle of knowhere? Trust God and enjoy the show! I took this picture just before the rain started falling. The light is the hill we were walking beside the dark is the sky ready to give us its show.
This afternoon it was "outta here" (again). Tonight over tapas with Jurgen, I saw Marlena walk by. I went out and Tanya was with her (met both in separate cities). I'm inspired again. Marlena in the middle, Tanya on the right.
Love/hate hotel. Have power, shower, etc. Have windows open for street noise. 149 short of sleeping companions. All the toilet paper I want. Weird not wearing tomorrow's clothes to bed. I kid you not - it took THREE baths to get the water to run clear and not brown. Not wearing my contacts or putting the case in my shoes at night is new too. Guesses that I'll wake up at 5:30 with nowhere to go?
Still playing the Jeopardy theme song!
(From my Treo)
Sunday, September 16, 2007
That said I would stay there again. And I recommend it for the fact he has worked hard to restore the Camino and actually the unkempt conditions are probably what pilgrims of the past had to endure.
Back to September's post: Not much to report other than distance. Tomorrow or Tuesday I will have my exit strategy. It changes daily so I have no clue what the "final answer" will be. Jeopardy music here.
(From my Treo)
Saturday, September 15, 2007
The Camino takes us through the original part of every village, always past a church or two. Most of the churches were built in the 12th century (and the nearby building's skeletons).
Javier sent me off with a sunflower in my pack today. (My laundry hadn't dried the day before so the sun and I needed to work together.) I promised myself to leave it at a Mary statue at one of the churches. It stayed pretty perky all day. Where did I stop tonight? The church of Santa Maria.
The storks came just as Mass concluded. Huge, 5 or 6 of them, sailing up to the church's bell tower. Once in the nests they started clapping their beaks. It sounds like broomsticks being smacked together. This was my only request of the camino...to see the storks. I have been given a hundred gifts from this journey, but also my single hope.
Hello wine club. Please hug Louise for me!
(From my Treo)
Friday, September 14, 2007
Jerry walked me to the door that morning and handed me a prayer card. He doesn't know how much it meant to me - the times I walked with him were so special. I will never look at a rose the same way again. I swear that everyday after we parted a rose presented itself to me. I came home to mine, unattended for a month, blooming in full glory! (Jerry, I didn't get your email - let me know how you're doing!)
Zammy was my mat mate that night - he is Israeli. We talked at length about his ideas for ecumenical peace and understanding. I like his ideas! I wish I could talk to him more! La kayim!
Javier and Rosa pulled me in, let me cry, let me work, let me sit, let me help. I will be forever indebted to their hospitality and love.
I found a stork feather this morning in front of the church in Santo Domingo. A new stowaway, like my ring :)
Know that I am in good condition physically and mentally. I feel like I am with family today-much love, warmth, and compassion. Tomorrow - march on pilgrim!
(From my Treo)
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Special people of the day? Jorge and Anne. Jorge is teaching us all the roadside food we've overlooked. They were also my bunkmates lastonight.
Tomorrow whort walk, had to go further today than I wanted to. 4-star church loft calling my name for tomorrow night!
(From my Treo)
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Meals from a can - mystery meat. Bread strapped to your pack.
No need to dress in the morning - your pajamas were today's clothes.
You find your best from last week 10 ft. from you TODAY hen again you weren't going out, but did.
You're actually disappointed to meet someone from the States - there is nothing new to learn! The sound of all the languages is like a beautiful symphony to me!
(From my Treo)
Check to see what hurts less and what might hurt new.
Toilet, teeth, face, hair optional, tape toes. Food. Go. Probably still dark if you avoided toilet prance.
Having checked for yellow arrows the previous night, head out carefully because arrows don't glow in the dark. Walk.
In about an hour turn around and see a glorious sunrise! Have a bite of chocolate! Walk.
Village and cafe con leche. Walk. Smile at locals and say "buenas dias", get "buen camino" and figs. Walk.
See vineyards and churches and very old buildings and children and very old wrinkled people whop will give you blessings.. Eat fabulous food. Walk.
Get to alburgue. Wait for opening. Talk with other pilgrims. Pay 3-5 Euro ($5-7), get bed. Lay out sleeping bag. Get iin line to shower 70-140 wanting same. If staying in churches, sleep on floor (really very nice), and cook and eat and clean up together. Siesta (everything is closed). Walk to see city (always in the old part - beautiful!)
10:00 lights out.
Everydays brings a new miracle to experience! Everyday some new Espanol and food and kindness and old friend and new friend. Absolute joy!
(From my Treo)
Later today when I was tired, but holaing and buenas diasing the entire countryside, a local gave me two figs (off his neighbor's tree I think) and walked with me for a bit until we got to his street and then said adios.
I now understand why people do the camino over and over again.
And then there is tapas e cafe con leche!
(From my Treo)
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Monday, September 10, 2007
In church praying this afternoon, and priest comes over and greets me. Pats both shhoulders and blesses me.
I should have raised my feet perhaps?
(From my Treo)
New day, new blister. We all have noticed what hurts today won't tomorrow, but something will. At least today I could use both feet normally and not walk like an ape. I still don't have speed because of today's blister, but that's OK to.
I found Joop finally. Walked past a bar and saw him. I went up behind him "what's a girl gotta do to get a drink around here?" He and I both burst into tears. He'd been leaving me notes at the side of the road under rocks. Had missed him by 10 minutes and probably 20 meters in Los Arcos the day before.
The footprint pins have become the craze of the Camino! People see the pins and meet and pass messages back and forth about and to me. "You know Theresa"?. I heard Teri for the first time in days last night. The hospitalario of the refuge gave me a place to sleep when the spaces were all gone. He said "Teri" was used by close friends and family. For him to use it said a lot.
I will need to leave before I can finish. I can't hopscotch.....too much to experience every place, every day. Will pick a stopping point, come home and come back again.
My view of life and the world and myself is forever changed. Every hurt and doubt and fear has been neutralized. I know who and what is important. The rest is finito. And when I lose sight of that again, you'll find me back on the camino....where there is always a place to sleep and someone who knows EXACTLY why you're crying.
(From my Treo)
Saturday, September 08, 2007
Still searching for Joop tonight.
This is still all so still surreal. Speaking more Espanol than English.
The footprint pins have become a cult!. People are greeting each other because they have seen the pins and know ME! Dwight, what a facinating phenomena you have started! Mucho gracias me amigo!
(From my Treo)
Friday, September 07, 2007
The alburgue last night only allowed seven total. Tonight my room has four. The 120 has been interesting. I´m listening to opera Pavarotti as I type as Jose is an Opera fan. He was tending to the alburgue for his father Jose, Sr. (During the trip Pavarotti passed away.)
Tonight I´m helping cook dinner. Nothing is a problem, every thing just works out. I mean, heck, I´m helping cook in Spain! Jose sent me limping up to the "store"...the last house on the left up the hill. I knew what I had to buy, but didn't know exactly how to ask for it....but I did. The alburgue wasn't certified or whatever to serve food, but Pilgrims were allowed to cook. Hence our plan. And at one point I asked Jose if he had the same meal served EVERYNIGHT and he said, yes. (The crowd turned over every day, who would know?) And as you can see below, the outcome of the cooking left them smiling. Or maybe that was the wine...whatever!
Oh and every village is on a hill...that being able to see your enemy coming thing.
Here are the coolest things I´m encountering: I´m totally FREE! Chocolate is energy! The food is fabulous! The world is kind and wonderful-I have witnessed it every hour of every day. Blackberries off the vine are divine! God is ever present...with the people, the alberques, the signs, rocks made into arrows, the food, the wine, the new friends.
This is the geatest thing I´ve ever experienced. I will NEVER be the same.
Thursday, September 06, 2007
I particularly loved the archway leading out of the town. Notice the color of the sky. So very beautiful.
Update....So the church of St. Felicia is actually in Obanos....but...here Jean....made a gourmet dinner, so wonderful. The prayer service was by candlelight. We each read a portion of the service in our own language. My portion was the prayer about footprints ... a favorite of mine and especially important because of the footprint pins that Dwight sent me to give out on the Camino.
Ave Maria was sung at my mother´s funeral and at Robert's. It means the world to me.
Desert was a custard with a little kiwi slice and the ever familiar (and much needed) yellow arrow. With our breakfast setting, Jean had a little polished rock with "Eunate" scripted on one side, the famous yellow arrow on the other. The detail to which he went to was amazing. The arrow pointed the direction of the Camino based on where the place setting was located in relationship to the trail.
I passed six nuns on the side road to get there (2 km out of the way). The first three tried to talk to me in Spanish. We did not do well, however they wished me buen camino. The 2nd set of two were patient and we got a lot shared. They told me there were several chicas at the church refuge. They looked at my necklace.....St. James, my Paris angel and my Miraculous Medal and then began hugging and kissing me and wishing me well. The 6th nun saw me crying (overwhelmed at the love of the two previous) asked me about my condition and also, wished me well. I love nuns, always have. Mother Anne´s warm hands are universal and very comforting to me. Then I get to Eunate and Jean is French. I lost my French over El Perdon. Spanish is all I speak now. Rudamentary, but it is what it is. This is a picture of Jean and me in front of the church.
Wikipedia sobre Eunate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Saint_Mary_of_Eunate
I am very happy to NOT see El Perdon´s windmills any more. I thought I´d never lose that damn mountain range.