I can pronounce it now. It feels like a 2nd home. It is 4pm and no poles. That also means no deodorant either. I did finally get a shower today - hot and with a locked door. Waiting outside the door was an "older" gentleman in his black Fruit of the Looms - could have been worse - white and/or Speedo and/or thong. I'm getting an education folks. There is one wish - I hope I start stinking soon - it will mask the other stinkers I have to sleep with. Whew! The same guy asked me a question today, not knowing exactly what language he asked in (I understood douche AND the fact he was only in his underpants) I answered in English, French and Spanish.
Now the good part is that I have good bread and very small containers of camembert cheese, orange maralade (my favorite French brand), and Nutella and BIG Milka bars - my favorite chocolate for my day meals tomorrow.
I will leave in the mist early tomorrow morning and be on Roncevalles (Roncevoux), Spain, manana noches. It is the biggest climb and descent of the trip tomorrow. I'm secretly glad I was able to rest today. It is beautiful here. I love France, but was able to love it more having been in this beautiful mountain village and scoured every inch (and wall of it). It is a citadel.
Bon Sois (?) or Bon Jour.