Alto de Perdon

Alto de Perdon is the mountain range just after Pamplona. It is where the famed windmills are perched (there are more places in Spain, but this is the "big one"). It is also where the Pilgrim memorial for Navarra is located. As you can see, I'm part of the pack!

The climb from the Pamploma valley is long and longer to get to the top. This is where Aleix got his "turbo" and I lot him but met up with Denise again! Remember, she's the gal I met at the airport and train station? She started her camino a day sooner than I did, so I hadn't seen her for awhile. We ran into each other again a few days later, then again a few after that. Right place, right time happened so many times on this trip. It was erie.

And after you bust your you-know-what to get to the memorial and the windmills....down you go. This is a picture of "the other side" . That's Denise heading down. I liked her attitude...."I'm not getting any further just standing here."

After abajo (down) I was at Eunate.

Pamplona

My apologies for yesterday. I was staying in a stone building and lost my connection. I thought I had lost my camera (found it in the pack) so there are no pictures between Roncevalles and Pamplona. This picture is Joop and Harald discussing where we should seek out the vino in one of the plaza majors in Pamplona. Harold and I crossed paths (many times really freakily - like I'd walk out of a building and he'd be standing in front of it) right up until Burgos when I jetted ahead to Sarria.

I stayed in the new alburque in Pamplona: Jesus y Maria. Muy Buen! Joop and Aleix are here. They and some Germans have made me the princess of the Camino and are disappointed I won't give them more stories to tell!

I'm partiial to the Basque pimientos (red peppers). Some things now are in my head in Spanish - after just two days of being in Spain! And I learned to order a sandwich as Bocadillo doesn't cut it.

I have met no Americans. Aleix has spoken rapid Spansh to me for several days (since St. Jean). He never gets impatient. "Como se dice" ("how do you say" in Spanish) and point and I get my new word of the hour. Aleix is my frequent bunk partner (don't read more into that than there is). NOTE: After Pamplona Aleix got his turbo pilgrim power and I didn't see him again until I motored forward out of Estella to Los Arcos. There, he had his new friends work on bending my boots to break them in for me.

A few blisters, a couple of aches, no ibuprophen needed yet. Yoga yay!

We started to head in the wrong direction early on in Pamplona today. A man shouted, grabbed Aleix's pack and turned us to the right.

I've seen more men in their underwear in four days than in my ENTIRE life. And a few lilly whites arses hanging out the shower. I brought my sarong and clothes pins with hooks!

Off to the Cathedral and some vino tinto (red wine - wine here is less than a $1 a glass and cheaper than water)!

What a beautiful city! I have seen where the bulls run for San Fermin.

Much love!

(From my Treo)

San Fermin - The Running Of The Bulls

And the best collection of clothing to represent it: http://www.kukuxumusu.com/. I bought a t-shirt with this print on it.

Roncesvalles

In Roncesvalles last night. (Wikipedia notes that in the year 2002 the population of Roncesvalles was 27. Then note that AT LEAST 120 people sleep there each night.) An alburgue of 120. THE SNORER that was in my room the night before was at the front of the room and I slept like a baby. This is what the "daily accomodations" look like on the Camino.

Yesterday was misty and foggy, which upset a lot of people. I like fog. I did not see Pyrenees scenery for all but five minutes in the afternoon, but I was reminded of hiking in Washington. This picture is of me, in the Pryenees, in the fog at the France/Spain border.

Friends: Denise, English living in Ireland; Eva, Sweden; and Joop (pronounced "Yope") from Netherlands.

Lots of stories to tell!

Wikipedia sobre Roncesvalles: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roncesvalles

My View of the Pyrenees

This was my general view during my day through the Pyrenees. Remember how I noted that I only got a five minute glimpse of "what was out there? Here are the before and after's.

I love hiking in the mist/fog, so my trek through the Pyranees was to my liking. Many complained about the weather and/or loss of view. But I was granted, late in the day, a glimpse of what everyone else in the days prior and preceeding had experienced.

At one point I just felt I needed to slow down and look around (this feeling/message happened a lot on the Camino and by following it, I was always rewarded with a little gift of something special to see or experience). It was like the sunlight and fog were having a battle of wills. I pulled out my camera. I turned around (stopping and looking backwards was another habit I developed early and did often that served me well on the Camino) to see that some very thick clouds part (yes, "part") and reveal (yes, "reveal") the hills and valleys in their exquisite verdant-ness.

St. Jean Pied de Port Deux

I can pronounce it now. It feels like a 2nd home. It is 4pm and no poles. That also means no deodorant either. I did finally get a shower today - hot and with a locked door. Waiting outside the door was an "older" gentleman in his black Fruit of the Looms - could have been worse - white and/or Speedo and/or thong. I'm getting an education folks. There is one wish - I hope I start stinking soon - it will mask the other stinkers I have to sleep with. Whew! The same guy asked me a question today, not knowing exactly what language he asked in (I understood douche AND the fact he was only in his underpants) I answered in English, French and Spanish.

Now the good part is that I have good bread and very small containers of camembert cheese, orange maralade (my favorite French brand), and Nutella and BIG Milka bars - my favorite chocolate for my day meals tomorrow.

I will leave in the mist early tomorrow morning and be on Roncevalles (Roncevoux), Spain, manana noches. It is the biggest climb and descent of the trip tomorrow. I'm secretly glad I was able to rest today. It is beautiful here. I love France, but was able to love it more having been in this beautiful mountain village and scoured every inch (and wall of it). It is a citadel.

Bon Sois (?) or Bon Jour.

St. Jean Pied de Port

I'm sitting beside a stream, in a misty village at the base of the Pyrenees having just eaten half a petite loaf of bread from the boulangerie. The hymns of the nearby stone church barely rising above the gurgle of the stream. Do I need to articulate my happy?

The airline called and the poles will come later today. No sweat, it is beautiful here. I'm in France, won't complain. I just secured a room at a refuge tonight so I have lodging.

Learned something new today. That universally women turn the map around to navigate. It isn't just me nor being an American.

Wikipedia au sujet de Saint-Jean-Pie-De-Port: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

(From my Treo)

No Place To Crash

No room in SJPP sleeping in gym at JaiAlai court. I won't shower because the other women are still out and door doesn't lock. Can you say donkey already?

Poles won't arrive until tomorrow PM. I can't start until Monday. OK though, will let the crowds thin out and I can explore this beautiful hamlet. Another day in France! I already found the cemetery.

Ate Basque tonight. The best fish in red peppers, green beans, frits, wine and a fresh French restaurant owner who plied me with an apple appertif and offered "chateau him".

School just filled up with Brazilians. Chantrelle, the hospitalrio, laughed and said I was one lucky girl!.

Met a WONDERFUL Irish woman named Denise at the Bayonne train station (I took a picture of her at the Bairritz station though - she looked so freaked out. She was afraid to start. We're strong, mad (as in crazy) women we decided and on we go. She bought drinks in Bayonne. She has the first set of footprints.

Most important today: I got my first sello (stamp) with 9/1 as starting my camino. It couldn't have been more important than to have it be THIS day.

(From my Treo)

Did You Say Paris?

My poles and liquids went to Paris. I'm in Biarritz (which was the plan for this trip anyway). I need an early start tomorrow because of that mountain range that I could see above the cloud line the whole way here. If not may try to wait one day. Those are my favorite poles + other trip stuff.

D - people have already picked me out an American Christian. The patches have been a help. Thank you.

(From my Treo)

France

I'm back in the land of Kinder candy and paprika Pringles. I just got a cafe (coffee) out of a vending machine. It was served with a tiny spoon and more flavor than what I make at home.

Asked a question twice and get three answers. I think I'm glad to have gotten this far... No pasport screening when I got here and a very confused man at security (planeside checking turned out for pickup in baggage claim). POSTSCRIPT: This is why my poles never made it.

Without a travel partner there is no concensus...only faith, guts, and guessing!

(From my Treo)