My Journey to Santiago de Compostela

Four Years

2011-09-26T15:45:00.000-06:00

Four years ago yesterday, I arrived in Santiago. i remember the journey and the arrival as if it were yesterday.. i've walked a segment of the Camino again last year. The movie "The Way" was released in the UK earlier this year, and I relived it again.

Two weeks ago I did a walking holiday in Tuscany, true to my September holiday spirit.

The Camino is my spirit and my spirit the Camino. Many, many blessings have found their way to me because of this journey.

If you're thinking about walking "the way', let it find you and bring you to it. You'll be forever changed and grateful.

Camino Miracles

2010-12-12T08:26:00.000-07:00

One little experience I haven't noted regarding this Camino was a problem I encountered back in August. I was noticing soreness in my hips when I bent over. Brushing my teeth or washing my face became very painful. Soon anything but sitting was nearly horribly taxing. I couldn't decide if walking or lying down was more painful.

The pain began moving from the back of my hips to the front of my leg.

In all of this, I was moving from the US to England. I'd ended one health care plan and not yet arrived to my new one. For once, a plane ride was a relief. Sitting was the least pain off all.

I didn't need to move any boxes. They were all sititng in my flat when I arrived. Bit by bit, I unpacked. Shopping in my little town had to all be on foot. I had to walk to work. I was relieved when I finally could just sit at work.

The pain had moved down to the top of my calf and down into my foot. My foot began to flop like a flat tire. This is how I spent my September.

I prayed. I let my friend know our trip was at risk. How could I walk the camino when walking to work was painful and sounded liked a sea lyon's flipper? I couldn't even wear my boots as my foot didn't want to bend enough allow me to tie it. I booked my tickets anyway, figuring it that being in the UK, the financial loss would be relatively small if I couldn't go and I truly had faith, that somehow, I'd make it.

I "felt" I needed to be working my back more. I needed to get my foot to bend. I needed to fight the pain, without ibuprophen and aspirin. I had insurance, but not my National Insurance Number. I didn't have enough energy to try to navigate the system.

Every morning and everynight I did "mini" yoga. I overdid it at one point and lost ground. I focused on getting my hips and back flexible again, straightening my leg and getting my foot to have some range of motion again.

Slowly, but surely, I increased my speed and reduced my the "flop". I began to walk some distances. It wore me out and often set me back. But each setback allowed me a little more gain.

Now you know why walking into Santiago de Compostela that last day was so important to me.

Walking Teams

2010-11-09T00:35:00.000-07:00

I heard the sweetest story. A man and his wife were doing the Camino together. They had met Joop before I met up with him in Redondela and they were part of the group that I met in the plaza upon my arrival. He said he said they both had different athletic abilities. They'd done a trial trip that allowed them to determine the necessities they needed to bring and how to accomodate their different walking speeds and endurances.

He was much taller and walked much faster than she did. For the trip he carried more than half of their items, thus taking on a bigger portion of the weight and he walked behind her, allowing her to set the pace of the trip. This combination freed her up to walk faster and slowed him down so as not to not exceed or push her, thus providing a positive emotional experience for them both.

Smart couple.

26 Octobre, 2010. Santiago de Compostella Dos.

2010-11-08T15:53:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Santiago de Compostela late Tuesday evening. My original intent, from the slowness and pain I experienced on Monday, was to taxi or bus from Padron to Santiago in the morning and meet my friend when he arrived.

Thinking about it later, I realized that much of my discomfort was mostly trying to figure out how to work out the logistics with my friend and that emotional toil was trumping up how my body was feeling. Stress is a great curtain for blocking a view of success. My shortcut commuting plan immediately followed when I learned that when I arrived in Padron later than my friend, and found him absent from the albergue , that he’d already seen all the sites listed in our guidebooks . I’m learning this while at the same time removing a plaster/bandaid that took the blistered top layer of skin off my entire pinky toe.

My friend woke me up at 5:30 on Tuesday saying he was starting to walk and that he’d left food in the kitchen for me to cook. I got up shortly after and went to the toilet and then the kitchen. I ate some fruit. I had no desire to cook, but left the food for other pilgrims that might want more fortification than they’d prepared for. I found myself packing fruit and the bread and cheese – for a taxi ride?

I’d dragged all my items and pack down from the sleeping area to the kitchen. I thought it best to put my boots on rather than to carry them separately. They didn’t hurt as I expected them to. I took my time gathering and packing and eating. Finally, all packed, I set out to find the bus station or taxi stand. I toyed with the idea of walking for a while, knowing Joop had a full day of walking ahead of him and that with wheels I could be there in a few minutes. I followed the arrows, consulted my directions, lost the arrows, asked questions and found myself at an empty taxi stand. The bus station was nowhere to be found, although I know I was very close to it. I didn’t pursue it. I gave myself a minute to collect my thoughts - I wasn’t ready to end my journey, I really wanted to walk for a bit. All the options were firing around in my head. I stepped off the main walkways, took a deep breath and asked God “what’s the plan for today?” As warm as a sunbeam and gentle as a breeze, the response was “walk”. So I did. I figured I’d find wheels the next town.

A few of the group that we’d met along the way passed me. They said “hello” and proceeded on.

I walked, alone with my thoughts. Since I now I knew I’d be walking alone, I immediately switched to my practice of thinking about the people in my life. I’d not had a chance to do this yet, this trip. It was so cathartic last time and I’d been longing for the solitude to do so again. I thought about each of my lovely daughters, my son in law and then my grandchildren. One by one, everyone got my full attention. Next came my present and “lost” friends, my lost loves, Robert, my precious sister in laws, my mother in law and each of my Camino friends. I spent time thinking of my relatives and friends who had died. This long list of angels took me out of Padron and into the countryside.

I walked through many breathtaking hamlets and eucalyptus forests. I saw roses and horreos everywhere I looked. My feet hurt but I was smiling. I cried from the velocity of happiness coursing through me. I was walking in magnificent Galicia AGAIN! The air was cool, the sky bright! I wished my friend could appreciate the joy I was feeling. I took pictures of snails and hawks, fall leaves and the ever-changing geography of the Camino. I felt so free.

The hamlets and villages offered me no bus services and nary a taxi was to be spotted.

I hobbled along and to the Teo albergue. I really didn’t want to call it a day and I wanted to get to Santiago to meet Joop. I was proud I’d made it that far, but thought I should stop. I could take the last “little” bit the next day. I had time. I could still see Joop before he went home. Not exactly according to plan, but doable. I’d sent my friend a text saying I’d probably stay there.

The albergue was empty. I found an unlocked door. A radio was playing. I knew at some point a hospitalero would come by, but I didn’t know when. I used the toilet, refilled my water bottle. Still no one. I rested a bit and then started working on my feet. I debated whether to press on or hunker down. Chances were, so close to Santiago, with so few pilgrims on the road and knowing every one of my “regulars” were ahead of me there wouldn’t be any other pilgrims staying there. I did not want to stay in an unlocked albergue, in an isolated area, in a foreign country, alone. I sent another text saying I wasn’t sure what I’d do next.

Maybe I could find a taxi in town. There was no town per se. On the other side of Teo, there was a man and his grandchild out walking. I asked him to call a taxi for me. He declined.

I began my cranky dialog to God. “I recognize this feeling of agony and defeat. I felt it before. And here I am again. I did this why? I’m tired. My feet hurt. I’m on vacation this time, not a real pilgrimage. I just ate the last of my food, and yeah I just saw the Cathedral and it’s all the way past that valley. Yeah, I know I’ve chanted a thousand times that if I can see it I can make it, even to other pilgrims to help them, but you know what, maybe I don’t wanna this time. “ He’d already talked to me once this day….and I expected him to respond to that tirade?

A young couple headed toward me and passed me. They stopped to ask a woman which of the two ways offered was the quickest. One was quicker and harder, the other longer but easier. The longer part didn’t appeal to me nor did the harder. When I asked which way would get me a taxi, they all said “noooooo”, not now”! We all chose the longer way and the couple offered to walk with me, but I was in the step by step mode now. I told them to go on even though I was a bit worried about walking through a dark forest with dusk approaching.

I received a reward immediately. A little crackling sound brought a tiny vole from the underbrush. He ambled toward my boot and stopped. I reached for my camera. He waited. I took his picture, thanked him for his presence and carefully stepped over him and went on my way.

I still had a couple of cities to maneuver before I would get to the Cathedral. My math had said it would be 8 or 8:30 before I made it. My friend had arrived hours earlier. I sent another text. I’d been expecting the waiting final arrival text from him or maybe a note asking me how I was faring.

Once in Santiago, the streets become very busy and the arrows are harder to keep track of. Post siesta, it gets very congested with commuters leaving and the locals convening. The closer one gets to the Cathedral, the harder it due to the ancient streets following the natural geography. You know the cathedral is “up”. Which “up” is the right “up”?

I had been advised after the park and crossing the street, the street in front of me would lead me directly to the Cathedral. I crossed the street and found I had three choices in front of me, two which were more likely candidates, but still no spires. The warm evening and multiple restaurants with outside seating had the evening party crowds packing into the area. I asked a gentleman which way I needed to go. He proceeded to lead me, stopping every few seconds allowing me to squeeze myself and my securely attached pack, through the throngs of people. After a bit he pointed at the illuminated spire. I thanked him, hugged him and with tears in my eyes, and I swear, jet propulsion out the bottom of my pack, headed up the hill. I was sobbing. I had done what I had no faith in being able to do.

A woman shop owner was standing outside smoking. She grabbed me smiling, laughing and crying too. Kissed me on the forehead, stared into my eyes, hugged me fiercely, twirled me around and have me a push to start me back up the hill.

I was now one of those stumbling, smiling, bawling pilgrims. I’d done over 27 km that day when I didn’t believe I had it in me to do a single step.

Knowing the rest of the way like the back of my hand, gallimped my way to the plaza, down the stairs, around the back to view the magnificent lighted Cathedral from the front. I was there just a tiny bit after eight. I wanted to see Joop and hear about his arrival and tell him about my magnificent day. One of the gals that I’d seen every day during our walk caught me as I entered the big plaza. She saw me crying and commented on my late arrival. “You walked all of it?!” “You did it!” And then she led me to the group we’d been crisscrossing with all week.

I figured Joop was with them. He wasn’t, but they had seen him after he’d arrived. He’d told them I was coming by bus. I tried calling him and messaged him again. The group began undoing my pack and relieving me of all things I’d been carrying. They asked if I wanted to join them for dinner. We had a wonderful celebration meal. Still no message from Joop.

Joop and I had planned to share the cost of lodging once we arrived in Santiago. I didn’t know where he was and there were literally hundreds of places surrounding the Cathedral commercial and private, where he might be. I wasn’t sure what to do next. My friends were worried for me.

Thomas, the you-take-my-breath-way handsome Austrian, said he had two beds in his place, to please consider staying with him. Which I did. And the answer to the question I know you’re all dying to ask out loud is, no, he didn’t snore.

We slept until it was full daylight, shared a coffee con leche and then headed off to do our own things. I headed to the Pilgrim’s Mass. This time I was free to accept Communion (I wasn’t on my last journey) – it was very special for me. Joop found me in the Church and greeted me with a fierce hug.

After Mass I headed to the line/queue for hugging the Saint James statue that resides on the alter and for viewing his tomb. This was a holy year due to his Saint’s Day falling on a Sunday (July 25) and they had opened the special Holy door on January 1. The queue/line snaked around the plaza and I chose to wait it out. I had arrived so late the day before, the entrance had already closed. I still needed to visit the Pilgrim’s office for my official Cathedral sello/stamp in my Pilgrim’s credential. Joop stood with me for awhile, but decided to run some errands instead of going in. He’d, unsurprisingly, done all the “rituals” upon his own arrival the preceding day.

He briefly asked if I’d found a place to stay the night before. He’d stayed at the albergue. I never thought of looking for him there as that was the one place he said he wouldn’t stay in Santiago. He hadn’t received my messages because he hadn’t looked for them. He’d gone off with a local friend for the evening before and was preparing to do so again. Hasta lavista baby.

I made reservations for my own place, retrieved my pack, thanked Thomas and the others and made my way back to the “hill” to drink in as much of Santiago de Compostela as this Pilgrim could possibly do.

Crocs

2010-11-06T14:49:00.000-06:00

I have to post this before I forget!

Three years ago, I hooked my baby blue crocks to the side of my pack and used them as pockets for daytime food and as a boot escape at night. People would stare at them and endlessly comment on them.

Teri the trendsetter.

With a pair of socks, they were prefect for wandering around the villages in the evening. At night, they were the perfect eyeglasses, flashlight/torch and potty paper case. Shoes and necessary servicio items for the night, tucked right under the bed.

This trip? 3/4 of the men and women I met up with had them in tow! Mine, this trip, were a perky pair of ruby pink mary janes. And they'll go with me again.

Posting Backwards

2010-11-06T13:12:00.000-06:00

For the Portugues Route journey, I'm going to post backwards. Starting with my time in Santiago. I love it there and the weather was lovely (until the day I left).

Once arriving in Santiago, one is free to wander around and take in the Cathedral area or the city. I never seem to get out of the Cathedral area as the whole reason I'm there is to be in the presence of St. James. I like to wader the streets or sit on the steps of the plaza and watch new pilgrims stumble-run to to the church or the Pilgrims office.

The pilgrim's whole body tells a story. Darkly tanned and lean muscled, indicates they probably did all or most of Camino Frances. Crying (almost always with smiles) pilgrims tell me they have conquered many fears and perhaps sorrows during their journey. Some stride in with a confidence of having been there before. Some look as disconserted as the day they began their journey, knowing they think this is the end of their path.

Having been a pilgrim twice now, I know there are emotions that unique to each journey and emotions that are common to the pilgrimage itself. I welcome both. I've learned things about myself that I now know I can count on from day to day, pilgrimage to pilgrimage. I know if, no when, I do it again, I'll have a new experience too. The same emotions arise when discomfort presents itself and the unbounding joy of arrival is no less bright. I know the journey does not end in Santiago de Compostela. It is usally the beginning of figuring out how to get back again.

My facination with Spain and the people of the countryside is only growing. The Camino is a place I can shed my material world of professional protocol and verbal tapdancing and immerse myself in the world of universal human interaction. Many times I have encountered people who speak no English and with me barely able to order a sandwich the way I want it, but yet we manage to have a meaningful exchange. I have had tiny bent-over women, when greeted with Buenas Dias, stop and bless me. Which makes me cry, which makes them hug me more. In one of my next posts, I'll describe my arrival into Santiago and the special people who guided my way.

I visited the museum and a few of the many churches that are clustered around the Cathedral Plaza. One I visited at the same time of day that I had the last time, as the woman in the fee booth reminded me of closing time. I feel like I have a race with the clock each time, although I get to see it all. One memorable moment was that after asking permission, I was able to photograph the actual remains of St. James that are housed in the reliquary. I asked if I could as long as I didn't flash. I was allowed to take one. I am there, standing three feet from the remains of one of The Apostles. That Apostle knew and loved Jesus. Kind of like a friend of a friend feeling. It was warm, fuzzy and very overwhelming for me.

Part of my arrival post will also include the story of my first night of housing in Santiago. Some things didn't go as planned and some people I'd met on the Camino let me stay with them. A seemingly nice place to stay, but it gave new meaning to "good night, sleep tight, don't let the bed bugs bite"!

The remainder of my time in Santiago de Compostela, I stayed in a pension. I thought I would miss staying in the little apartment type place Estella offered me last trip. But folks, I'm going to say that after all that hiking, the extra bucks and the soft sheets and shower with all the hot water I want, is my new treat. I like being near the Cathedral and now have my "place of choice".

Something I did on this trip was totally brilliant.....really. I bought a lapel pin, the Santiago cross. I pinned it on the front page of my credential. When the alburgues or pilgrim or museum, gave me any paper, I'd stick it on the inside of the credential and secure it with the back side pin. All of my special items are with my credential forever. No more lost stork feathers.

There's my post journey summary.

26 Octobre, 2010

2010-10-30T02:29:00.000-06:00

I arrived in Santiago de Compostela after walking from Redondela via Camino Portuguese. I will do this route again, hopefully from Oporto or Lisbon. It was beatiful. The last 100km seemed to me much less commercial than the last 100 on the Camino Frances route. I will write and post pictures soon.

I had buen viaje!

Manana: Santiago de Compostela Dos

2010-10-21T03:37:00.000-06:00

♪♫•*¨*•.¸¸♥ My pack is packed, it's ready to go. It's standing there, right by the door. It's waiting for 3am to come 'round. I'm leaving on a jet plane and then practically walking home again. ♥ ¸¸.•*¨*•♫♪

Gathering The Important Stuff

2010-10-19T16:12:00.000-06:00

I still haven't packed my pack. My pile of goods to go this time, is very small. No doubts about weight or volume. I hate to, but I have to, check my pack. It exceeds the ever charging Ryan Air's length. That's OK too, because coming home I'll have room for cans tuna fish with vegetables, almond cookies, a nativity scene, etc.

The important stuff is taking my thoughts of family. friends, current and estranged, my loves, my losses, my triumphs and my hurts and tucking them in a space in my bag. As I walk, I contemplate all these wonderful people and events, focusing on each one for an hour or two. With each step happiness grows, pain diminishes. At the end of the journey is an unbelievable peace.

I love my life. I am grateful for all the splendid opportunities that I've been afforded. I have the most wonderful children. All of these great and wonderful gifts will be rejoiced. I will reflect and rejoice in my sorrows too. For if any of them were absent, the journey would have been different, today's destination would be altered.

Peace, namaste, joy.

Preparing For The Journey

2010-10-17T12:37:00.000-06:00

Today, I went through all the things I'd gathered to take. When I have a major trip or event of some sort, I start gathering or listing things that I think I might need or need to do. As the time gets closer, I weed out what isn't really needed and review what is. Having done the camino before, I did a LOT of weeding. My pack is going to be totally managable. (Not that it wasn't before).

Today, whilst walking in England's crisp fall air, I realised that I needed a converter for my phone charger. Chances are, I won't need to charge my phone, but that's one of those things, I just don't take a chance with.

I'm debating about my Kindle. I will have plenty of time to read on the plane (not as much as last time -hahahahaha!) I HATE not having a book to read when I travel.

I stood in front of the mirror whilst wearing my pack. Oh my dear friend, I have missed you. I'm so glad that I spent the $$ on a good one before. It was like putting on a favorite glove today. My boots, bought earlier this year in Scotland, have become part of my feet. I look forward to hiking with them. I'm strapping my walking sticks to my pack this time. I'm taking two, but learnt last time that one is better. I may even leave one behind. I wish I could take the one from my last Camino, but it didn't bring it to England with me. Too valuable.

I found the route to meet up with my friend. A train ride will get me there quickly and cheaply. I'll be there before he is that day. I may walk to him just to get some hiking the first day. I may go straight to the alburgue and take a nap. Who knows?

So close. I'm so anxious. I'm so ready.

See you soon my dear Santiago.

Camino on my mind

2010-10-15T13:39:00.000-06:00

I leave a week from today to do a little Camino on the Portuguese Route. I'll meet up with Joop and walk for a few days with him.

I received my 2011 Camino Calendar.

Ready for nature. Ready for my heart to swell. Ready to be filled again.

13 Days

2010-10-10T07:43:00.000-06:00

In thirteen days my feet will touch the Camino once again. My body is electric thinking about it. I'm wondering if it will feel the same or different. Whether I'll feel all novice again or "experienced". Will walking with a friend enhance it, ruin it, or just be different? Will the bedbugs bite? Etc., etc.

The different season will be interesting to see.

The Camino changed me. I'm excited to experience it again. (And without two days flying!)

All Roads Lead to Santiago

2010-07-18T15:33:00.000-06:00

While back in Utah, I found some time and inspiration to pull a piece together. It was not to be a Camino piece, but, it happened anyway. The theme went deeper and deeper and linked things further and futher into my past.

Teri Cuts and Pastes

The irony or coincidence (don't believe in that any more) packing for my move to England last week, I was going through saved boxes. I have a special mementos box that every now and then I stroll down memory lane with it. This stroll landed on a sub-package that had my pictures and souvinirs of Portugal in it. (It was before my scrapbooking time....one of these days.) In the bundle was a National Geographic map that Dwidget gave me before the trip....to Portugal. The map is of Portugal AND Spain. On the "cover" is a drawing of St. James/Santiago and many places that I passed during my Camino. It has all the places we visited in Portugal.

And I thought it all started in a bookstore in Seattle.....

All Roads Lead To Santiago

2010-06-19T10:21:00.000-06:00

Once one has journeyed to Santiago de Compostella, you will most likely find that the journey never ends. You will find to, on later journeys that the Camino is never far from your periphery, as shown below.

King's College, Aberdeen, Scotland and Colchester Castle/Museum, Colchester, England.

One Foot In Front Of The Other

2010-05-12T13:31:00.000-06:00

Gerry and Lilly begin to finish their Camino on Friday. Gerry to finish his. Lilly to start and finish hers. His stride is so long, Lilly's going to have to have to wear roller skates! He'd find me in the morning, walk a few kilometres with me and then stride off into the sunrise.

He's written with his itinerary and to let me know the little feet will be with them.

I hope their path is lined with a million roses.

Blessings my dear friend. I will forever remember your kindness and the prayer card you so gently pressed into my hand that morning.

Buen Camino

Another Camino

2010-05-12T13:16:00.000-06:00

Sometime this summer, I'll be embarking on another Camino. A short one.

Joop has a credential for me and we're going to do a short run from Amsterdam. It's nice to be so close to the Camino - a short flight and I'm there.

I don't know how long I'll be blessed with living in the UK/Europe, but I sure am enjoying it.

Every day is a Camino of sorts right now.

Buen Camino - where ever it may take you.

Celebrate1

2010-04-04T04:46:00.002-06:00

Easter in a "foreign" church prompts me to post here rather than on my personal blog. This is a holy place and I feel it is better suited for here.

I participated in Mass in at the Cathedral in Brentwood, England. It was moving and hovers at the top of my list of memorable and moving (my girls getting baptised and my husband joining the Church bring special meanings to Easter too) category.

The priest, being English, tends to look so serious, but his Homilies are moving and always make me smile, if not laugh out loud. He said it was an Easter "rule", up until about the 15th century for priests to bring laughter to the Easter service. After the seriousness of lent and the enormity of the Christ rising, spring springing, and all that, joy was required. After the priests became stand up comics, the Bishops he said, changed the rule.

His stories of this week were heartlifting. A first reconciliation where he raised his hand to grant absolution and the young lad high fived him. Asking a group of children what they thought Christ's first words were after He arose, a youngster thrusting her hand in the air and bouncing about, Ta da!" she responded.

Entertiwned with the words the priest was sharing and reciting, I thought about the Passion play I witnessed on Portobello Road on Friday, my Camino and the world it opened for me, my relationship with St. James and his relationship with Christ. I thought about Mary, who is my feminine advisor and fills my life with roses. The angels I know whom walk with me.

He made us promise to celebrate today. I am. All of the blessings. All of the love, all of the opportunities and challenges bestowed upon me. All of my family, both of blood and from love. My friends. My angels. I'm celebrating prayers answered, prayers unanswered (there's a great country song about this), and sending grace, and peace, and prayers out to all of you.

Inhale the Grace and the spring and the symbols of hope this Day and sason bring. It doesn't matter your faith or your beliefs. Renewal is all around us. Just take a moment and take it in. Celebrate!

It's Been Awhile

2010-03-03T14:15:00.002-07:00

For lots of known reasons and many unknown reasons I've been away from the Church. Not away from God, by any means. I have a very close relationship with him. But I've not been to Church for a long, long time. Let me be more specific. I went to church/Mass all along the Camino. I've gone other times too. But not regularly and not with Communion.

The Catholic church is just across the river. I see it out of my window every morning and every night. I've gone every Sunday and to all of the Lenten services. Tonight I did my confession with a wonderful priest. This place has called me, ever so quietly, back to the place that I so dearly love.

Perhaps it is the building's gentle presence. Perhaps it is because it is St. Mary's. Perhaps because the likes of Joop and Gerry and Dwight and others, serve as mentors and reminders and callers and memories.

I'm never far from God. But I've not let myself get truly close for a very long time.

It's nice to be home.

Everywhere!

2010-02-13T13:25:00.002-07:00

Earlier this week, I was caught by surprise. A gentleman at the paper I'm working at in Scotland, asked me if I had really done the Camino. First my surprise was wondering how he I had, and the second bit of surprise was just that I had found someone else who knew of it.

Here in Europe, pretty much everyone knows about it. When/if I mention it, I don't have to explain myself.

I sent off information for him, so he'll have the same good start I did.

And the part about how he'd known? He'd Googled me :)

My Steps

2010-01-09T23:31:00.004-07:00

After getting to view the Camino Steps art exhibit in St. Paul I felt an additional kinship with others, knowing that the emotions and "guidance" I felt, was not in my head. I futher confirmed it this last summer when I was able to get back together with my friends. I needed to meet with them again. I needed to sit with them and ask about their experience, while looking in their eyes, and hear it for real. To know mine was real too. And that happened.

My collage work, about the Camino is still very literal. I have spurts of metaphorical creativity in other areas, but not with my journey. Meeting Kuch in December is helping.

In the meantime, here is my small, but personally signifigant collection.

Update

2010-01-04T05:08:00.003-07:00

A post from a friend spurred me to see when I last wrote. And then I saw Klaus' post about May being the last date.

Oh my heavens, I have not updated two, wait, no, three pieces, no wait, FOUR pieces of news.

One: I found Gerry! Or rather Gerry found me! Yes, Jerry is Gerry and Gerry will "finish" his Camino this summer with his lovely wife, Lilly. Just as planned! I will get to see him this year, if my planned trip to Ireland comes together.

Two: I met up with Joop and Harald this last September. At the end of a trip to Paris, I took the train to Amsterdam. Joop lives about an hour outside of the city and Harald came from Germany. We stayed in a hostel and spent a couple of days seeing Holland from a local's eyes.

Three: Virginia / "Ginn", whom I became cyber friends with from having read this blog, has made her Camino and returned home. Thanks to Facebook, we "face" nearly every day!

Four: Javier's daughter and I still converse now and again. She's working in Japan.

Two New Encounters

2009-05-03T17:02:00.002-06:00

My cousin mentioned to a Park Ranger that I'd walked across Spain (meaning she figured I could handle a week of backpacking in the Canyonlands). The ranger looked at me and said "you did the Camino"?

Yay! He and his wife had also. And low and behold his wife was also a ranger. He had me look her up while leaving the park.

That was my first encounter, other than at the exhibit of running into other pilgrims.

Hopefully the first of many.

Sacred Steps

2009-04-18T21:09:00.002-06:00

I attended the Sacred Steps Art Exhibition at St. Thomas this weekend.

I was fortunte to have a few moments to meet George Greenia before his lecture. It was a simple and brief, but dead-on description of the history and compulsion and emotion of the camino. I was moved.

He had the pilgrims stand...there were so many of us. And I met Donna. I have someone, finally, Stateside, only a timezone away, in a city that I frequent to talk about it. We had many things in common.

I felt at home again. With kin.

If you get a chance to see the art exhibit, please try to see it. It is small, but emotionally signifigant.

Feliz Año Nuevo

2009-01-02T18:40:00.000-07:00

I woke up yesterday thinking - Feliz Año Nuevo. I would have said I said it out loud and you would have thought I went looneytoons. No, it was definitely inside my head because I remember my eyes rolling up as I was trying to think what order the words needed to said. More to the point. At 12:00:01 AM, January 1, 2009, I could no longer say "last year" and "mi Camino' in the same sentence. That was a sad realization for my head and heart. It seems so yesterday and so long ago at the same time. It was surreal to me as the date approached to start.

It was surreal when I was walking day after day. And it is surreal to think that I did it at all. Except....

When January 1, 2009 I hear from Harald and Joop wishing me a happy new year. And my dear friends beckon me to their homelands for a visit.

Joop, bless his poetic, sweet heart wrote: "Since we have met there has not been a single day that I did not think of you....."

And this is why whistfully, I retreat from "last year", but enthusiastically embrace "soon" and look forward to 2012 when the "gang" all converges on Santiago once again to rejoice in our "saintly" friendships.

Pilgrim's Together

2008-10-19T12:21:00.002-06:00

Pilgrim's Together (click to watch video)
by John Coleman

No longer strangers but pilgrims together
Called to be woven like threads on the loom
Drawn by the one God who thirsts for communion
Called by the piper called by the tune
Though we come from many nations
And our faith has many names
Across oceans over mountains
On these paths of peace we come
To be together in the walking
In the resting in the meal
And when the blessed breath of evening comes
As one the pilgrims kneel
No longer strangers. . .
We know our thirst for God is blessing
We know our hunger’s not a curse
We know our emptiness is sacred room
Like a precious spirit purse
We are lovers of communion
We are building with our clay
A house for God to dwell with us
Let us be the house we pray
No longer strangers. . .
Every thread that’s sewn is different
There are no two quite the same
All the colours make strange rainbows
God’s promises made plain
We submit to the great weaver
Let our pattern be the weaver’s refrain
Our God the God of difference
Calls each of us by name
No longer strangers. . .

364 Days Later

2008-09-02T16:46:00.002-06:00

Tomorrow is the first anniversary begining my Camino. Joop and I, a year ago today were sitting in a tiny outdoor cafe, sipping red wine contemplating our sanity and fortitude of the days ahead of us.

After sharing much of my story for the first time this weekend with a new one in my life, I reflected again on the signifigance of this adventure.

Joop called yesterday. Emails from Harald and Anika today. We're all in each other's thoughts - still woven together from the journey.

My past, my present and my future.

That Precise Moment

2008-05-08T21:01:00.002-06:00

This evening I was outside. A calm Spring day. Fading light. I noticed the color, the temperature, the birds, the sky. It is evening this time.

Last Fall it was the light. The Light.

I often started out in the mornings in the dark. Sometimes damp and crisp. More often than not the mornings I ventured out early were pitch dark. The dark before the dawn dark. The time of day when everything is at rest. Night is even sleeping at that point.

And then I could see-feel my feet. The air began to have light. The birds would begin to cheep. The landscape would start to expose texture and depth. The stars would fade and everything else woke up. I could hear proud roosters for miles. Voices would begin to carry. Lambs would begin to bleat. And I inhaled it all. I let it come to me. Day after day.

And today, although it was evening, I was transported once again.

New Meaning To Easter

2008-03-21T13:59:00.002-06:00

My little band of Camino friends have been exchanging Easter greetings the last few days. I realized while responding to one that through St. James, we connected ourselves to the Easter Story. St James was at the Crucifixion. He was there in the Upper Room when Christ returned.

I have not a single doubt in my bones we were all summoned to the Camino and therefore summoned to a connection with Christ as his first followers were.

Easter has a new meaning to me this year. Will it for you?

Six Months Ago Today....

2008-03-01T10:34:00.002-07:00

Six months ago today my feet landed on French soil ready to walk to "the ends of the Earth". All alone and with a "journey of a lifetime" ahead of me.

I met my first Camino friend Denise, then Joop, then Eva, then Aliche, then Harald, then Klaus, then Siggy, then Javier, then Dominique, then Marlene and after coming home, Tamara, Javier's daughter, etc. The list goes on and on.

We keep being hurled together over and over. Pictures shared, another familiar face found, another email exchanged, another connection made. It's an exercise in openness, love, International relations, Faith, geography, and chance.

I love you all so very, very much. My heart grows bigger every day.

Father Jose Maria

2008-02-27T19:54:00.002-07:00

I received word tonight Father Jose Maria, caretaker of San Juan de Ortega, has passed away.

What a wonderful man: Revived the Camino, offered refuge to us Pilgrims, served us Garlic Soup, and took the time to speak to us. I was awed when meeting him and will not forget his kindness. Here's the link to the post I did during my Camino.

San Juan de Ortega

Jurgen is sitting with him on the park bench.

One of my other walking companions was kind enough to tell him, in Spanish, for me, how grateful I was for the work he had done in getting the Camino revived.

I think of him often and will include him in my prayers. My dear and beloved St. James, please walk with him and share with thim all the blessings we are sending his way.

Gracias Padre, Vaya Con Dios!

A Beautiful Gift

2008-02-16T13:29:00.003-07:00

I received a BIG surprise in the mail last week. A beautiful 16" x 16" (40cm x 40cm) calendar of the Camino from Harald.

Holding the package in my hand alone brought tears very close to the surface. The fact that he thought to send me something .... all the way from Germany to Utah. Then I opened it.

And I cried. Then I sobbed. Then I cried a little more. HUGE, beautiful pictures of the Camino. A whole year of them. Just for me!

I was explaining the emotion to a friend of mine: I told her that I "reference" Websites and books and people often about the Camino. My Camino Friends and all the authors all took the same road, seeing the exact same things. And every person has captured that "exact same spot" in a different way. From snails on a blade of grass to the blue skies above the churches, to the long stretches of trail. Somehow it all gets captured. It just takes a few hundred of us to pull ALL the beauty together again.

And then there are some who can do it so easily with a 16x16, .5 inch box. Thank you!

Friendships Grow

2008-02-15T21:41:00.002-07:00

My dear friend and savior, Javier, does not speak English, nor does he own a computer. But he has a lovely daughter who I have become friends with. She writes excellent English is so very cheerful and passes messages between her dear father and I. I hope some day to see Javier again so I can thank him for his tender care in Granon. I hope some day to meet her as I find her to be a delightful person.

Ahhh the magic of the Camino.

Happy Feet

2008-02-15T21:26:00.002-07:00

Joop posted about the feet pins on his site. It is so wonderful to hear him talk about our friendship. He's a wonderful man and was one of the "special people" who kept me going.

http://gaviota.shareyourstory.nl/verhalen/Happy%20Feet

Buen Camino little feet.

Much love to you Joop - you're wonderful!

The Boys!

2008-01-25T22:27:00.000-07:00

Two of my wonderful Camino companions got together a couple of weeks ago for a little reunion. The photo is beautiful -to see them both together again. It makes me laugh though to see them both with hair and sitting in a kitchen!

The last picture I had of them together was on a plaza major in Pamploma!

These guys mean so much to me....we crossed paths every few days for about 3 weeks.

Here's what they wrote about me:

Ended with a good glas [sic] of real cognac and a BIG sigar [sic]. While enjoying these earthly products, we remembered ourselves how lucky we are to have a heavenly girl friend, Angel Theresa. (Remember Joop is Dutch - English is his second language).

What I Want To Be When I Grow Up!

2008-01-24T13:42:00.000-07:00

A wandering woman writing from Spain!

Here is a wonderful pictoral journey of what I saw (many of the same types of pictures I took - and haven't yet posted) while on my Camino. This is beautiful and well worth the time.

http://wandering-woman.blogspot.com/2008/01/one-pereginas-camino-de-santiago-slide.html

Grab a cup of coffee or a bottle of good Spanish wine, take a seat and take this splendid journey!

2007 Camino Statistics

2008-01-10T14:04:00.000-07:00

I've underline and emphasized those that represent ME!!

There were 114,026 Compostela recipients pilgrims in 2007 (100,377 in 2006).

Pilgrims with purely religious motives were 43,581; religious-cultural 60,944 and non-religious 9,501.

104,568 pilgrims came from Europe. The largest number of non-Spaniard pilgrims came from Germany, 13,837, followed by those from Italy, 10,257, those from France, 6,982, those from Portugal, 4,001, those from the United States 2,229. Those from Canada 1,850, those from the UK 1,696: those from Austria, 1,686; from Holland 1,655; from Brasil, 1,395; from Belgium, 1,332: from Switzerland 1,136; from Ireland 1,090........ and the rest in verying numbers from more than 100 countries.

47,246 of the pilgrims were women and 66,780 were men.

Pilgrims under 15 years of age were 4,858; 16 to 35, 44,239: 36 to 65, 58,631 and 66 to 100, 6,298,(4,843 in 2006).

On A Pilgrimage...

2007-11-21T22:52:00.001-07:00

I found this quote on another Santiago de Compostela blog site. A woman on a train gave the advice to the pilgrim whose site I'm quoting: http://denise-camino.blogspot.com/2007/09/angels.html

On a pilgrimage, we meet ourselves and we meet God too. A pilgrimage strengthens one's soul. In life, we must not pass ourselves by. We must live completely. Head on with our true self.

This is so true. Have I not said this in my other posts? On Gossamer?

Sunrise, Sunset

2007-11-21T17:12:00.000-07:00

One thing that has lingered with me since returning from my Camino has been watching and appreciating sunrises and sunsets. I made a concerted effort while on the Camino to stop, turn around and F-E-E-L the sunrises. Sunsets, I sometimes missed there. I have a beautiful view of the winter sunsets from my home, and I do take the time to watch them begin and end.

I know that I'm supposed to hold on to this appreciation and ritual because the sunrise shown above is the one I experienced the morning after I returned from Spain. I was wide awake due to the time zone shift and was present and had the presence to STOP and take it all in.

The picture below is of me leaving Eunate. A little pilgrim fun.

Javier

2007-11-20T10:48:00.000-07:00

Javier had his daughter write to me today!! He was the hospitalerio who was so kind to me in Granon. I am so glad to be in touch with him (through her)!

He took me up to the bell tower at the church and let me see the entire valley and hillsides. He had me help with dinner.

The funniest part is he had me translating to/for him with the English speaking pilgrims - like I speak Spanish with any fluency!! (I'm working on that).

He was a wonderful man (and he can cook!) who helped me on a very sad day.

I have made this dinner twice now for my friends - I brought much home - thanks to him!

A youtube video of the Camino

2007-11-14T21:38:00.000-07:00

The video and music is beautiful. The recollection made me cry.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=kLlQzkTfZu0

Walk It Forward

2007-11-14T06:00:00.000-07:00

Remember the footprint pins Dwight gave me to give to people on the Camino? They're still walking. A fellow pilgrim wrote to me this morning:

"Looking at the feet you gave me, the lapel pin with the three feet, 'm thinking of giving them away to a friend who is going to walk the camino next year. I already gave her a shell this summer and when I'm are going to meet her again I'm intending to give her the feet under with the best wishes and the desire that if she completes her camino, she'll pass the feet to another Pilgrim. This way, or that way? - the feet always will be walking with one pilgrim or another. Do you give me permission to give through your present? I think it's better for them to move than to lay on my desk, don't you think so. Of course I'll make a photograph of them before saying goodby!"

This is so beautiful!

Desperately Seeking Jerry

2007-11-13T09:56:00.000-07:00

If any of my wonderful readers know how to reach Jerry from Ireland, please let me know. He was a significant part of my camino.

Here are some clues:

Jerry
Ireland
wife named Lilly
tall
Was going to Leon to meet Lilly and complete Camino with her at another time.
Described as the fast walker
Catholic
Loved Roses
Hung out with Cedric and Jorg
Caught up with me on many a morning (I left early) and would walk with me for a town or two.

Gracias and thank you!

Klaus

2007-11-13T08:16:00.001-07:00

Klaus found me :) I'm so glad.

Klaus and I walked together one day and part of another. When I met him we were decending a fairly steep hillside. He was so sweet, standing close by me to be sure I was OK, but still letting me find my own way. We walked and talked for awhile.

I saw him again on the way up Alto de Perdon, outside of Pamplona.

I told him then that it was the highest incline/descent we'd be facing on the whole trip. I was wrong. At least now I can apologize for my misinformation.

The 23rd Psalm

2007-11-12T19:02:00.000-07:00

When I see my walking stick out of the corner of my eye, the 23rd Psalm comes to mind. I've added a few Camino moments to it....did you feel it?

The Lord is my Shepherd; I shall not want. (I had everything I needed - it came to me.)
He maketh me to lie down in green pastures: (I had several rests beside the road, in the beauty of the countryside. I revel in the sunrises and sunsets, still.)
He leadeth me beside the still waters. (I dipped my feet in cold, refreshing streams and drank of the purest water.)
He restoreth my soul (I am touched by the Camino and the joy that prevails in my heart.)
He leadeth me in the paths of righteousness for His name' sake. (Humanity was at its best on the Camino.)

Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, (I walked alone, and sometimes in the darkness of of the morning, and I felt safe.)
For thou art with me; (Not a moment did I doubt it.)
Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me. (My walking stick was my strength when I had none, my trust when I needed some.)
Thou preparest a table before me in the presence of mine enemies;Thou annointest my head with oil; My cup runneth over. (We, of all nations and beliefs, shared food together).

Surely goodness and mercy shall follow me all the days of my life, (I pray the Camino stays in my heart) and I will dwell in the House of the Lord forever (and the faith I have so deeply felt, will nourish me forever).

The Answer Is Here

2007-11-12T11:48:00.000-07:00

I just posted a question on my other blog that really will proffer no finite answers but....in hitting "Publish Post", I realized the answer was given to me on the Camino.

The non-answer is within the question itself.

The answer is that it hasn't been my time. I have been, for a time, for others. What a lovely gift to have been given, of being a gift. As perplexing as this sounds, I will bet that you, my Camino friends will understand.

La Cena Es Mañana Toda la España

2007-11-09T21:45:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow is my "annual" hosting of the wine club. I belong because of my friend - it is her housing development's club. Once a year they come off the mountain to my house. The group is a wonderful, interesting bunch. They were very involved with my Camino and tomorrow we all do a virtual Camino together.

We will have tapas, polvorones, manchego cheese, goat cheese, salad, almonds, tarta de Santiago, membrillo, chocolat de Santiago, fig spread, pan, the dinner made in Granon, and wines from Navarra, Rioja, Castilla y Leon, and Galacia.

I'ts been fun to night to decorate, review my pictures and put Spanish flashcards around the house.

The camino stays with me and I like it!

The Camino Did It.

2007-11-09T21:31:00.000-07:00

Denise summed it up so well in her email today - this sent shivers up my spine.

"It's so wonderful being unconditionally happy."

I so understand.

Another Favorite Picture

2007-11-06T15:05:00.001-07:00

This time it is one that I took of Juergen.

Lessons From The Camino

2007-11-05T20:08:00.000-07:00

I'm (happily) learning that you can take a girl off the Camino, but you can't take the Camino out of the girl.

People are still asking me about my trip. The walking, the spiritual gifts, my Camino friends, the country, the lessons, the memories, have not left me.

It actually grows within me. While once the Camino was merely a thought, then a dream, then a reality (and sometimes a pain in the footsie), then a memory, the lessons learned have become a reality of my days. A part of me.

I'm not perfect and in real life I stumble being the person I was called to be on the Camino. But, I've been changed and for the most part it has stuck with me. As did my friends from here while I was on the Camino and have my Camino friends since we parted.

It is beautiful.

Anika

2007-10-28T06:34:00.001-06:00

Anika made it to Sanitago Saturday, October 27!

This picture of Joop, Harald, Anika and me was taken in Pamplona.

All That Time To Think

2007-10-27T09:41:00.001-06:00

I was thinking this morning how The Camino really offered a great opportunity for people to brood. 500 miles of self -pity.

But from my experience with myself and, I think, those around me - most everyone simply reflected and planned.

Many people I met were divorced, divorcing or widowed. Everyone mentioned their familial status and also, very candidly discussed the joys or pains of arriving there. (Ironically, job fields were also mentioned but job titles or roles were never discussed). They also used the time to sort out what they "really wanted" next.

Personally, I "studied" all my friends, family members and ex's, spending time praying for them, reflecting on our bonds and qualities, thinking about bettering a current relationship or learning from the past and in some cases mentally "letting go". There was not a second of bitterness or anger present. Trust me, there were days of contemplation about individuals.

What I found to be deeply moving was that with this raw candidness, many of us formed a bond unlike any other I've ever experienced. Because The Camino is so physically and emotionally rigorous and the pairing of souls became so profound, I believe it is fair to say we all fell a little bit in love. We have collected soulmates from around the globe.

Back in the "real world", with the rest of the world not knowing The Camino world exists, this benevolent filter becomes thinned and is sometimes difficult to activate. For the most part though, I came back with a new perspective and opportunity to look at all things and people in a different and more peaceful way. And too, I have wonderful new friends with whom I can converse and slip back onto the Camino and again restore my soul when needed.

Jorge

2007-10-26T14:14:00.000-06:00

Jorge arrived in Santiago October 5 and went on to Finisterre (the end of the known World in Columbus' time) on October 8.

Anne (Paris) and Jorge and I walked together for a couple of days. We visited the monestary in Najera together.

Jorge, being from Spain, was our Camino botanist showing us all the things we could eat from the flora along the trail. He ate it first so we followed along. He was also the guy with the long legs who "borrowed" part of my bunk one night having being designated (assigned bunk numbers) as my upper bunk mate.

This being a travel year for him (electronic study break from his teaching position) he's off to Germany, Holland and Belgium here soon.

Denise Made It!

2007-10-21T13:34:00.000-06:00

I received an email from Denise today!

"Got to Santiago on 13th Oct - exactly 6 weeks and I walked every step of the way! I thought about you every day and will always remember how you said "Fly little bird, fly" when I set out that 1st morning. There's so much I want to tell you but there are no coincidences only miracles, and the best involves Dominique."

Her Dominique story was one of those chance encounters of meeting up with her after many days of not seeing her....somewhat like me with a different Dominique, Harald, Marlena, Tania and of course, Denise herself.

She mentioned in another email of ongoing Camino dreams - I had those as well!

I'm still basking in the physical and spiritual miracles of it all.

Harald

2007-10-16T20:55:00.000-06:00

Harald made it to Santiago, Sunday, October 14!

He wrote today: " Today something unbelivible happend: I drove with 2 older ladies (from Germany, 61 & 63 years) per rent-car from Santiago to Muxia and Finisterre to see the Atlantic Ocean before flying home on Thursday. In Finisterre we all stopped in a small Bar/Restaurant at the harbour. The two ladies ordered a coffee which doesn't came. So I went into the Bar to reorder. At the Bar there was a man - drinking a Cognac and smoking a cigar - - - Joop!!! Absolute unbelivible. We met the last time in Viana (mid of September !!!). He arrived in Finisterre this morning - per feet ... Yes, the way's of God are unpredictable - and wonderfull !!! What an end for our both Camino's."

Yes, truly this is God's way. We all crossed paths so many times. These two were "the Spain team" keeping me going.

Juergen

2007-10-10T14:44:00.001-06:00

Juergen just emailed....he's 60 km out (3-4 days) out of Santiago! It is nice to know that more are "almost" there. Keep good thoughts for my Camino friends!

I met Juergen while having my morning snack between Granon and Belorado. I ran into him again at San Juan de Ortega and we walked together for a few days and hung out until he delivered me safely at the bus "estacion" my last morning in Burgos.

Joop

2007-10-09T19:36:00.001-06:00

Joop emailed me yesterday - he was planning on arriving in Santiago today. Yay! Joop you did it - 800 km, 500 mi, 6 weeks. I remember that first day in St. Jean Pied de Port when we met - you were so worried - and YOU DID IT! Congratulations!

Here's Joop's account of the Camino: http://gaviota.shareyourstory.nl/. He has some breathtaking pictures displayed.

Sue Kenney

2007-10-09T19:32:00.000-06:00

Sue Kenney emailed me yesterday. She had a spelling correction of a name to offer to me on a post I'd done about Eunate on one of the Camino boards.

Sue has written two camino books and done a DVD. I hadn't read them before I went, but I intend to now. Check out the video clip on her site. In minutes it captures what it will take you hours to read here. And the guy singing is Miro - his 10th camino. He was at Eunate when I was and in several towns after that.

http://www.suekenney.ca/

Tarta de Santiago

2007-10-06T21:34:00.000-06:00

Remember the lovely Tarta de Santiago boxes that graced gift stores and panaderias along the Camino? I found a spectacular recipe. I am nibbling, imbibing and reminiscing as I type. Here's the picture of my efforts this evening in the kitchen.

Here's the link to the recipe I used. I found that 2 1/3 cups of whole almonds will make the noted amount of ground almonds for the recipe. I think too, that I kept my almonds a bit courser than the recipe intended, but I liked the results.

http://spanishfood.about.com/od/dessertssweets/r/tartadesantiago.htm

Going Global

2007-10-05T08:55:00.001-06:00

Last month at this time I was in the Pyrenees.

Last week at this time I was leaving Madrid, making my way home.

This week I'm back at work and getting emails from my Camino friends. The emails are originating from Spain, France, Germany and the Netherlands. Some forgetting I don't speak mulitple languages LOL! (Thank goodness for online translaters).

The common thread in those emails: 1) Almost there! or 2) Wish we were back there!

Yet another gift of the Camino

OK, Now I'll Talk About It

2007-10-02T19:08:00.000-06:00

My Camino walking stick did not come home when I did. It made it from Spain to Newark, but then got lost between Newark and Salt Lake City.

Remember that my hiking poles didn't make it over? Because of that I bought a stick in St. Jean Pied de Port. I found the height I needed. It had a little leather cord on the top, a metal pokey bottom, and a scallop shell engraved on upper part of the pole. It was not a finished wood, but it was sanded smooth, still retaining it's natural tree limb bumps.

This stick practically carried me when I could barely walk (the blister thing). When the going got rough, it steadied me. Down was a dream, up was a lift. I left it here, I left it there. It was always waiting. (Then I learned how to prop it with the pack and we stuck together pretty well.)

Most every hurdle with the trip I handled like "no big deal". This, however, was tapdancing with my psyche. I really, really, really wanted it back. To me it was going to be something I could hand down to one of my grandkids, like Dad had given me his pack.

The airline was fabulous, really and no kidding. They took my report and checked to see if it made it but was unusual enough that it was hiding in the plane hold (before I ever left the airport). They called every day after that, checking details, asking questions and letting me know they were still looking and would check after each arrival.

Today they called saying it was in Houston (???) and would arrive in SLC by 2pm. At 4pm the delivery service called for more details on my house location.

My stick is here.

And now, seeing it, and holding it, all those miles that seemed so surreal and dreamlike are now very validated. The stick brought the journey home.

Stop by, I'll tell you the story behind that walking stick propped up in the corner. :)

To My Camino Friends

2007-10-02T18:49:00.000-06:00

Denise, Joop, Eva, Harald, Aleix, Klaus, Jorge, Marlene, Tanya, Anika, Cedric, Denis, Sara, Mino, Baltazar, Jurgen:

A week ago today I entered Santiago. By my calculations you should all be arriving in the next few days or week. I'm thinking about you all. I admire (and envy) you for the distance you have traveled. I hope that you, like me, feel the joy that I felt upon entering the Cathedral and the thanksgiving that lept from my heart for having had the calling, faith, courage and stamina to arrive there.

Jerry, Anne, I will continue to think about you warmly, knowing your camino completion is in your future. I can't wait to hear the stories.

Dominique, Kayleen, Penny, Ziggy - It was fabulous to have you at the finish line with me. How fortunate it was to have us all intersect AGAIN!

You have all, so very, very deeply, touched my soul and changed my life forever. I thank you for being such a part of my Camino.

The Trip's Not Over Until The Blog Is Done

2007-10-01T17:39:00.000-06:00

I'm working on adding pictures to the posts. I will also create addtional posts to describe pictures that I've taken that I'd like to share. This is going to take awhile. My journal has been a big help on knowing what was where and reminding me of notes that I want capture on the blog.

And I'm updating willy nilly. A thought or place comes to mind and I hunt down the picture and update...so don't even bother trying to figure out where to begin. If you look now too, it will mostly be people pictures and not scenery. I'm recalling all the friendships. I promise there's a lot of places to see. I just need to keep plugging along.

I'm going back to work tomorrow so this will be an evening and weekend project. I'll send out an email when it is complete.

If you're reading this and I don't know you, clicking on my profile and the email link will provide you with my address. Write to me and let me know you'd like to be notified of the completion.

No More Coincidences

2007-10-01T09:21:00.000-06:00

I had this stuck on my wall at home. I have no idea where I got it, when I put it up or what drew me to it. The back is copywrited and has the website about church vocations. The art, the words and the message are more than appropriate for my pilgrimage.

The front:

The back: Dare the Dream Prayer: Jesus, help me to trust the little intuitions that feed my spirit with this deep and certain knowledge: your love and grace guide my steps; you keep your promises; you will never abandon me. As I discern my response to your call, help me to be attentive to the ways your Spirit guides me. Then, Jesus, every step – wherever it takes me –will always lead me to you.

And: Blessed are you who belived that what was spoken to you by the Lord would be fulfilled. - Luke 1:45.

While I don't feel I was called (or being called) to a vocation, I do strongly feel that I was called to do this pilgrimage and to be forced to trust the Voice of direction, housing, darkness, cold, pain, etc. I feel that I was selected to experience the daily miracles and cross paths with those whose lives I am now intermingled with. I won't dilute the experience by saying "my faith was renewed", but more that the faith I had, which sometimes I take for granted, was bathed in gold and at the same time deepened to the rawest, most basic, elemental emotions one could experience. A very special gift.

That's ME You're Talkin' About

2007-09-30T14:22:00.000-06:00

I just received this Santiago update: The people at the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago have just informed that the number of pilgrims receiving the Compostela as of last Wednesday has surpassed 100,000.

It is very cool - they list your first name in Latin!

I got mine on Tuesday afternoon! How exciting that it was so close to this milestone!

I Have Issues

2007-09-29T04:33:00.000-06:00

I'm home. It's 4:30 am in the morning here (UTAH) and I'm wide awake because it is 12:30 pm there (SPAIN). You'd think after being in bus stations and airports for 48 hours I'd want to sleep, but I don't, I want to walk. My body is literally aching to propel itself forward and make distance somewhere.

I've been unpacking, happily putting this away upstairs and that away downstairs and up and down and up and down. My house has become a Teri treadmill! (Or Teri has become a gerbil.) I'm still thinking to myself in Spanish. And I do realize this awake stint has to last in until 9pm or so tonight (UTAH). No siestas for this girl.

I tried to put one of my dress pumps on - hahaha. I won't be doing the "proper" shoe thing at work for a few days. It will be ahwile before I can be Cinderella.

I have some walking things I can do today...wash the car (boy does it get dirty sitting in the carport for a month), walk to the runners store (that sounded funny) and thank them for their assistance with stuff for the trip and walk to the outdoors store and RAVE to the man that sold me my pack and later helped adjust it. That pack was totally an appendage of me during the trip. It carried a great load at times and very, very well.

My hiking sticks made it back to the US. The other things in the box (which I smartly put in a plastic bag) had leaked and melted all to heck. I didn't even try to work with them - straight into the trash. My hiking stick from Spain made it to Newark, but not to Salt Lake City. I PRAY that they find it and get it to me. This stick was the saving grace of my trip.

This weekend I plan to PARTY with my friends (they had one ready for my arrival until my plane was way way way delayed), fix the spelling errors and update this site with some details that were too cumbersome to outline on the Treo and of course, add pictures!, chat with the kids and Julie and little Miss Nora.

I keep wanting to eat, eat, eat. Gonna have to nip that in the bud starting NOW! I made coffee - yuck. Get this, I sit down to look up a recipe of the tortilla de patatas that I fell in love with and Pieter had just posted it in the last few days. No hunting there. I went on and hunted down some other tapas recipes. I promised the wine club that I would do the honors in Oct. or Nov. and we'd have a Spain theme. I'm ready!

Happiness: Toilet paper and hair conditioner and water in a glass.

Adios Santiago de Compostela

2007-09-27T12:33:00.001-06:00

I'm at the bus station, leaving in about an hour for Madrid. What a beautiful adventure this has been. I read my journal today and even with "re-living" it, it doesn't seem real.

I never felt alone on the Camino even though most of the 270+ miles were solo. Faith and my friends & kids back home filled my heart and my head. I feel absolutely isolated in the fact that so few people in the US have done this and I feel like I have a big fat secret. I'm not sure I will ever be able to adequately share the mystery (without sounding like a lunatic).

I had too much time on my hands today and found an antique bookstore. My achilles heel. I found the Codex Calixtinus in Spanish, a perfect, unworn copy. (I'm always carting books home!) The shopkeeper gave me a 1911 printing of Austen's Persuasion (Spanish) as a gift.

I went to the Cathedral early this morning to offer my thanks for the Camino, Nora, Dwight's healing, my friends, family, etc. I saw the full moon set and the sun rise. I sat on the church steps and felt the sun's warmth and later the heavy clouds racing by overhead. I watched the pilgrims arrive, seeking the church and pilgrim's office as I had.

Every day I loved greeting the elderly locals in Spanish and watching their faces light up in surprise.

Yes world, I am the luckiest girl alive and I give much thanks!

(From my Treo)

Buenos Noches Santiago

2007-09-26T13:53:00.001-06:00

My "apartment" is part of a semi-open air collection of the same. There are kids next to me with a guitar. The music is festive and joyful. They've been yelled at a couple times by the real residents, but I'm enjoying their obvious joy and bohemien-ness of this whole adventure!

I finally managed to get a hot meal tonight when I wanted it. I used the system-ordered lunch late. Pimientos de Pardón. I ordered my entire meal in Spanish (and knew what I was ordering) and responded to the questions. I even correced the owner on the bill because he was undercharging me..in Spanish!

Two things have changed with the region change..tortilla (which is different than the US version too) and pimiento which was a red pepper in Navarra and is now a little green chili in Galacia.

I bought some relish picks today that represent Galacia. The shopkeeper wrote the names of all the items for me. An explained what each item was used for in the home or while farming.

I'm obsessed with the horreos and actually bought a figurine of one. I I was almost a German Shepherd's lunch yesterday for stopping long enough to shoot a pic of one with a date on it. I sat by the gal at Mass today that was walking by a the same time - by the way how does that happen? 500 people at Mass and we find each other. This has happened a thousand times on the Camino.

I've run into a handful people I met on the first part of the trip... how did we all get here at te same time? And then there's all the others I've met in the last week.

My last night here. Tomorrow night is bus sleeping.

Thanks to all who did and tried to join the webcam jam that was fun! (I'll add the video eventually!)

(From my Treo)

Santiago Dias Dos

2007-09-26T07:22:00.000-06:00

I'm keeping close to the Cathedral today - it is very much a CamIno area and let's me hang on just a bit. I love my room and the fact it is in the heart of it all.

I did laundry this morning for the last time by hand. I took that in too.

I bought probably the last amount of mystery food from te trip - looked a bit like potato salad. It was that and more! It included tuna, surimi, green olives, egg, carrots, corn, peas and God knows what else. I found my beloved cookies yesterday on the way into the city. I have to be careful now, I can't keep eating like a pilgrim. I'm not walking 10-20 miles a day!

I have my bus ticket o Madrid for tomorrow night and Friday afternoon I fly home. PS Delta has been WONDERFUL to me on this whole trip.

My three days in Santiago will have been a wonderful, relaxing ending to the experience of a lifetime!

See you at the fountain in a few!

(From my Treo)

iPods on the Camino

2007-09-25T19:27:00.000-06:00

1. Because the sleeping arrangements are so public you really have to take all your electronics to bed with you.
2. If the nearby bunkmate is noisy, you'll break an eardrum with the iPod before you can drown them out.
3. Music can put a nice punch to your pace, but you just get hungrier sooner and then have to STOP and get food out of your pack.
4. Miracles of Santiago and John Denver's nature and love songs are great for "the hike".
5. I had several clocks for the various timezones. It was nice coming home to know Spain, East Coast and Mountain Time.

But...where it was almost a catastrophy was when I was near Santiago and I was be bopping along. I jumped out of the way because I thought a car was bearing down on my behind. It was loud and fast! It wasn't a car it was a jet...we were were next to a runway that was obscured by a little forest. Thought I was toast there for a moment!!

(From my Treo)

Santiago

2007-09-25T13:03:00.000-06:00

I'm here, I'm Compostelled, I've hugged the statue of St. James from behind the altar, and I've visited his tomb (the purposed of this little 400 km stroll).

I did the cool thing and let one of the local ladies find me. They find the Pilgrims near the Cathedral and offer to rent rooms for just a few Euro a night. I still have to forage for my own food and do laundry in a tub, but the bathroom is next door and I only have to share it with a couple of rooms.

Speaking of food. I tried to eat at 7:00 and the place wouldn't do dinner until 8:00 so I tracked down a grocery store and still had ham and cheese on bread. I'm so tired and cold that I just want to snuggle down and sleep until daylight. (A camino joke.) The HOT private shower was a treat too!

Tomorrow is climbing to the top of the Cathedral, the Pilgrim's Mass, touristy stuff, SHOPPING, hot food and travel arrangements.

AND at 9am Utah time I'll be at the fountain on the webcam. If you want to see proof of destination, please join http://www.crtvg.es/cgi-bin/camweb/camaras.asp?id=8&idioma=galego

Thanks for all your support. I couldn't have done it without you!

(From my Treo)

My Journey

2007-09-24T23:13:00.000-06:00

Last Taping

2007-09-24T23:11:00.000-06:00

I think that was the last toe taping I'm going to have to do. 21 km to the finish line.

(From my Treo)

Santiago Manana!

2007-09-24T10:43:00.001-06:00

I couldn't stand the thought of sitting the bulk of the day in the alburge in Arzua so I kept walking, right through to tomorrow's destination, Santa Irene. So tomorrow is Santiago!

I am excited. This has been the bestest adventure ever! Thanks to all of you who have been posting on this site and have been sending me emails. I couldn't have done it without your support.

(From my Treo)

Meleide

2007-09-23T11:16:00.001-06:00

I ate at the famed Ezequiel, a pulperia. Translated..octopus. Yup folks, they pull them out of a boiling vat of spiced liquid, chop them up, sprinkle salt, paprika I'm guessing, wine and olive oil. Very good! The bread was awesome too. I ordered some wine and it came in a pitcher with a bowl! (A closer look at the sign would have given me a clue that this was how it was served.) I gave some to the locals and the gal that split the order with me. There were probably 200 people in there all doing the same. I made the comment that I thought it was odd that there was all this octopus being featured so far inland. Martina pointed out to me that while we were six days away from the coast, by car or truck it was about an hour or two.

This morning I got to be a part of moving the dairy cows from the barn to the pasture. The guidebooks ask us to wait for the animals. The owner told me to go. So the Bessies and I wandered down the road together. Cows weave. The woman was concerned, since it was early, that I hadn't eaten. I didn't know how to tell her I had...twice already.

If I knew there would be places to stay, I would crank my mileage and finish Tuesday. Each day, pretty much, I still find a Camino gift along the way. The pilgrims are different now and there are more: those that only had a week or two. They don't have the same "I got broken and healed" manner to them. This is hard for me to adjust to. Example: the bunkbed slats and bathrooms have graffiti, sometimes very crude. I guess I'm just saying I have to look harder to find the simple graces. They are still here and I have found them, but they aren't "presenting" themselves as they have the last few weeks.

Down to 50 km to go!
(From my Treo)

Palas de Rei

2007-09-22T11:57:00.001-06:00

I think I earned to say "oh crap! " in 10 languages this morning. We all slept until 7:30. The alburges close at 8! Today was un eventful other than my weekly Saturday call from Louise. I look forward to these! Her first was so appropriately timed, as I would have bailed this adventure the first week if not for that call.

Tomorrow is Sunday which means today required grocery shopping. I have been looking for a bakery to get those great cookies that Jurgen kept buying for me in Burgos.

My shadow is smaller. I gave my shorts a hitch up today and could see my whole feet down through the waistband.

I should be to Santiago on Wednesday!

Blessed Domingo/Sunday to you! (Manana)

(From my Treo)

Camino Karma

2007-09-22T11:53:00.001-06:00

I was picking my bed today and found one that I liked. A man literally stepped in front of me and threw his pack on it.

I found another one. The guy came by later and was mad...I had a lamp in my bunk!

(From my Treo)

Gonzar

2007-09-21T06:24:00.001-06:00

Daylight is coming later and later. We're in a rhythm that is difficult to break. Asleep at 10pm, awake by 6, out the door by 7. But you get more efficient and it becomes out the door by 6:30.

I learned night hiking last year with Pat and Mt. Timp. Itls funM but a little daunting alone. IF, in my case, I remain open in thought, I lknow when I need to be looking for turns....my heart tells me there's an arrow I need to find.

This morning was a combination of road and forrest hiking in the dark.

I saw the Milky Way for the first time in my life. In perfect silence and crystal clarity in all its glory, with no city light competition.

In the forrest there were owls hooting..

I heard the morning first crow of the rooster in a tiny hamlet.

And I saw the morning mist form and begin to rise out of the valleys, all in perfect silence. Did you know that when one is still and not moving, the mist will surround you (for me it was like an embrace)?

And I got "footprinted" yesterday by an exhausted woman -I just held her while she was cying. Another couple doule bunked so she could have a bed (the albruge was full). She made braided bracelets for her angels. I wear it with great love and understanding.

(From my Treo)

Speedos

2007-09-21T05:58:00.001-06:00

OK boys time for a chat. The only Speedo exceptions are lovers and Hawaiian beaches (where everyone is stuffed onto a too small unflattering swim suit).

Share my vision folks: between 10 and 100 men every night and most are running around in their skivvies. Now imagine Hagreth (sp Harry Potter) and Jack Sprat wndering by, lower bunk eye level. See what I mean? It is a bit disconcerting when one of the wearers is your bunkmate and you've only just met over unpacking you mochillas.

OK so the view is sometme OK, but the math favors "eeeew".

(From my Treo)

Lucille on the Camino

2007-09-20T13:19:00.001-06:00

Damned if I didn't manage to order what Mom called goulash tonight. Her goulash wasn't goulash and this wasn't either. My least favorite meal on the planet found me in Spain. Hi Mom! I thought I had snuck out of the house being a solo peregrina en Espana without you knowing it.....guess not! Love you! Miss you! Tomorrow is walking for YOU!

(From my Treo)

Camino Pedometer

2007-09-20T04:47:00.001-06:00

I'm loving Galacia. Country roads, stone fences, rolling fields of farmland, forests, birdy calls, livestock perfume.

Every half kilometer there is a stone marker stating the distance to Santiago. Kind of like a New Year's countdown or a Spanish version of 100 bottles of beer on the wall.

It is early in the day. I am in Ferreiros. A little nowhere village with an alburgue. I am NOT going to pound out the km...I have time to take in every birdy chirp that is sent in my direction.

Earlier today I left a note in the stone hermitage for my Camino friends. Hopefully my spirit will call to them to stop and read my note as they pass by and know that I, in turn will be cheering them on.

This photo was taken at the 100km marker. The OFFICIAL spot marking the 100km's to Santiago that earn a Compostela.

(From my Treo)

Ready, Set, Go!

2007-09-19T13:11:00.001-06:00

Tomorrow (i honestly don't know what day of the week it is) I start the last 100 km (Dwidget I think has the inches and EXACT mileage) of the remaining Road to Santiago. I'm going to do it at my pace, listening to my breathing and my feet, and my heart. I only say it this way because all my Camino friends are behind me, finding their way. They have lit my path and now it is mine alone to complete - with their love and yours surrounding me.

I passed some beautiful scenery today on the train. I know I'll return to do this some more and again. This is peace. I have found me.

Sometime between know and then I'll find the Santiago webcam site so I can coordinate a time to wave at all of you!

(From my Treo)

Beat It Into Me!

2007-09-19T06:59:00.000-06:00

i'm surronded by religious the last couple of days. Two sister missionaries yesterday, three elders today (and I have a message to take home for one). Nice to talk with them because they all know Provo/Orem. One asked me today about if the Camino was hard? I reminded him he walks all day everyday...I thought it would be similar. He said "but I have a home to go to each night." But mine is for a month and his is for two years. Interesting this God stuff.

Now I did not attend Catholic school, but I can say, I've been smacked up the side of the head by a nun. My Spanish enunciation is not up to snuff. She made me read the newspaper out loud. To me, that's the easy part. I haven't a clue what I was reading about! When two more nuns joined her, I offered my seat. No way was I going to subject myself to a triple training lesson.

(From my Treo)

Fast Forward

2007-09-19T02:48:00.001-06:00

Listen Grasshopper and you shall learn.
No bus to where I wanted to go. I had briefly spoken to a girl who was going to Sarria. She bolted out of the bus station after going to the ticket counter.
When I found out that I could only go so far, I checked HER destination in my book. 2 days west. Ah hah! I went back to the counter and asked for her destination. I still got a "no" but got what I was looking for....why she left. The train! Then I had to find the station, which was easy by looking at the mapa outside the autobus estacion. A quick check in my phrasebook and I had the train schedule and ticket
The train doesn't leave for 6 hours and then has one change later in the day. So I'll cover two weeks of footwork today.
It is very cold here. Hearing utterances of snow. But the sky is clear. I bought pants last night so I'm ready should this become part of the adventure.
112 km to go! While I will have NOT done 800km, I will have over half. That is nearly 300 miles! Can you freaking believe it. At a miracle a day that isn't bad at all!

(From my Treo)

I'm A Big Girl Now!

2007-09-18T08:48:00.001-06:00

I found the tourist office. I got the bus schedule and had the lady mark rhe station on the map. I walked there this afternoon Jurgen insisted on going. (I insisted on navigating). He sggested I buy my ticket today (Good idea!). He got made because someone stepped in front of me. It was for a bs leaving in a few minutes. I told him it was OK and he reminded himself we're on the Camino. As I got to the counter I blocked his access to the counter andexplained, in Spanish, that I spoke only a little Espanol and had written the time and destination down. I had successfully requested my own bus ticket!.

Because I need to be there so early tomorrow and it isn't on the camino route where there will be a lot of pilgrims roaming about early, Jurgen will walk me to the station and then restart his camino on foot.

(From my Treo)

Special Recognition

2007-09-18T06:40:00.000-06:00

I have so many surrounding me who are keeping me on the road. I need to especially recognize three: Mr. Droopy Face and my Evil Twin and Jules have been so supportive. They all seem to know exactly when to say what (I think they are tag teaming sometimes). Please take time to all hug each other and pass my love around. I will give you each a big slobber when I get back.

Mr. D - has known me the longest, the best, and loved me the most! Every day of knowing him is a gift and a joy.

The other princess....how I look forward to our Saturday calls! I miss you so very much. Thanks for all your support, long distance hugs and ears.....you´ve listened to so much.

Congratulations to Jules and Brian for bringing little miss Nora into this world. She is blessed by having two of the most loving people I have ever known for parents. Jules....I hope she gives you all the joy you have given me for the last couple of decades.

Randi, Diana, Blaine, Brian, Steve, Julie B, Gina, Daniel, Denise, Shanna and everyone else....thank you so much.

To everyone - the humanity present on the Camino gives me hope that we can save the world!

Burgos Cathedral

2007-09-18T06:32:00.000-06:00

Burgos

2007-09-18T06:31:00.000-06:00

I went to the cathedral today. It has been spruced up to say the least....so beautiful. There were a couple of parts that were visible that had not yet been done....it was due for it´s facelift. It is impressive and very, breathtaking.

I needed some things in order to continue my journey. I DID NOT seek out the airport today as I was ready to do. I did get the bus schedule to Leon and from there will find something (donkey?) that will take me to the finishing line starting point.

Because I have to haul all my shopping treasures (no Paul) there a few things I have purchased. Along the Nativity line I have two that I´ve collected along the way....a postcard of a nativity scene and the tiniest nativity scene I´ve ever set eyes on. Smaller than a thimble full of the familia and 2 donkeys.

Thanks to my "almost bailed again" supporters and the peregrinos who show up just in time and know just what to say ¨you´ll be in Santiago inside of a week - how wonderful!¨ I get all the comments you´ve all posted on here. They are my strength and either end my day filled with joy or start my morning with smiles and hugs. I love you all so very, very much. And I truly think of you every inch of the way!

Cool Thing

2007-09-17T14:34:00.001-06:00

In order to use the hotel room's electricity...chargers, lights, etc., your doorcard has to be inserted in a special slot. So when you leave your room..no energy is wasted.

Fortunately the Princess know knows enough Spanish now to ask the maid how to turn on the lights!

(From my Treo)

Favorite Picture

2007-09-17T14:21:00.000-06:00

Juergen took this picture of me, just before the electrical storm let loose. Between San Juan de Ortega and Burgos. I absolutely LOVE IT! It captured my whole camino in one click

Rough Day

2007-09-17T14:20:00.001-06:00

I let too many influence my day today and ended up not only messing up a healing blister, but being very annoyed at someone and mostly with myself for not drawing a line in the mud and saying MY CAMINO! But one also learns on the Camino that you might be needed more FOR someone than the reverse. Which turned out to be the case today. So I was the lesson for someone today and the one I received is...haven't a clue.

Neat thing...one isn't supposed to be outside in a lightening and thunder storm right? What happens when you have no choice? You're literally in the middle of knowhere? Trust God and enjoy the show! I took this picture just before the rain started falling. The light is the hill we were walking beside the dark is the sky ready to give us its show.

I'm in a little hotel in Burgos. For two days. I swore I wasn't going to do this. (Hotel.) But here I am. Will plan tomorrow flight home, bus to Tricastelera or feet to Leon.

This afternoon it was "outta here" (again). Tonight over tapas with Jurgen, I saw Marlena walk by. I went out and Tanya was with her (met both in separate cities). I'm inspired again. Marlena in the middle, Tanya on the right.

Love/hate hotel. Have power, shower, etc. Have windows open for street noise. 149 short of sleeping companions. All the toilet paper I want. Weird not wearing tomorrow's clothes to bed. I kid you not - it took THREE baths to get the water to run clear and not brown. Not wearing my contacts or putting the case in my shoes at night is new too. Guesses that I'll wake up at 5:30 with nowhere to go?

Still playing the Jeopardy theme song!

(From my Treo)

San Juan de Ortega

2007-09-16T08:36:00.000-06:00

I didn't feel like stopping at noon today so.....24 km today. Glad I didn't stop or I would have wasted the forest shade on a morning. And....I caught up with Juergen by making it here.

Just patted the famed Calixto the dog, who picks pilgrims to walk with. He smells like a donkey!

This priest, photographed with Juergen, was integral in getting the Camino revived. After Mass, he serves garlic soup to the pilgrims - a well known ritual for pilgrims.

One note I need to add here (November). The accomodations here are not as "pristine" as other places you may have or have yet to stay. In fact some guidebooks will say there is no hot water. If you truly faint of heart - I'd recommend going on. There is a great restaurant/bar attached to the property with some really cheap, but good wine. There is no village to visit - you are there for the evening. My wonderful friendship with Juergen was forged here. I met him earlier, but the afternoon and evening spent together, going to mass and walking the next days built a bond we won't soon let slide

That said I would stay there again. And I recommend it for the fact he has worked hard to restore the Camino and actually the unkempt conditions are probably what pilgrims of the past had to endure.

Back to September's post: Not much to report other than distance. Tomorrow or Tuesday I will have my exit strategy. It changes daily so I have no clue what the "final answer" will be. Jeopardy music here.

(From my Treo)

All Gain, No Pain (Belorado)

2007-09-15T13:38:00.001-06:00

A grand day on the Camino! I'm in Belorado, sitting on a parkbench at dusk, listening to Mass being said. I'm parked on the bench because it is time for the storks to come roost. The nests are bigger than the church bells, some bigger than the belfries they are perched against.

The Camino takes us through the original part of every village, always past a church or two. Most of the churches were built in the 12th century (and the nearby building's skeletons).

Javier sent me off with a sunflower in my pack today. (My laundry hadn't dried the day before so the sun and I needed to work together.) I promised myself to leave it at a Mary statue at one of the churches. It stayed pretty perky all day. Where did I stop tonight? The church of Santa Maria.

The storks came just as Mass concluded. Huge, 5 or 6 of them, sailing up to the church's bell tower. Once in the nests they started clapping their beaks. It sounds like broomsticks being smacked together. This was my only request of the camino...to see the storks. I have been given a hundred gifts from this journey, but also my single hope.

Hello wine club. Please hug Louise for me!

(From my Treo)

Granon

2007-09-14T07:00:00.000-06:00

This is the place and the people that took such good care of me the day I heard about Ray passing away. I had heard that Granon was a special place to stay. I had no idea how special it would be for ME!

Jerry walked me to the door that morning and handed me a prayer card. He doesn't know how much it meant to me - the times I walked with him were so special. I will never look at a rose the same way again. I swear that everyday after we parted a rose presented itself to me. I came home to mine, unattended for a month, blooming in full glory! (Jerry, I didn't get your email - let me know how you're doing!)

Zammy was my mat mate that night - he is Israeli. We talked at length about his ideas for ecumenical peace and understanding. I like his ideas! I wish I could talk to him more! La kayim!

Javier and Rosa pulled me in, let me cry, let me work, let me sit, let me help. I will be forever indebted to their hospitality and love.

Ray

2007-09-14T06:54:00.000-06:00

I received word today that my brother Ray, passed away Sept. 3rd, the day I began my camino. He exemplified making family out of gene pooling. The church people in Granon have been very kind in letting me come in early and stay all day. They are also letting me assist with greeting other pilgrims. Javier took me to the bell tower and did a mini ding of the big church bell. Rosa keeps the refugio and Javier in line - I will help cook tonight - many mouths to feed..

I found a stork feather this morning in front of the church in Santo Domingo. A new stowaway, like my ring :)

Know that I am in good condition physically and mentally. I feel like I am with family today-much love, warmth, and compassion. Tomorrow - march on pilgrim!

(From my Treo)

Santo Domingo de Calzada

2007-09-13T14:00:00.001-06:00

Chickens in the chuirch! Legendary. Sleeping in an enclosed (barely) area outside/next to the church. 100 beds upstairs and probably near the same down here. Since exposed to the night air we have really nice wool blankets. I have a very cushy soft cot. Cozy warm.

Special people of the day? Jorge and Anne. Jorge is teaching us all the roadside food we've overlooked. They were also my bunkmates lastonight.

Tomorrow whort walk, had to go further today than I wanted to. 4-star church loft calling my name for tomorrow night!

(From my Treo)

Oh yeah

2007-09-12T13:17:00.001-06:00

And laundry by hand - hope it is sunny!

Meals from a can - mystery meat. Bread strapped to your pack.

No need to dress in the morning - your pajamas were today's clothes.

You find your best from last week 10 ft. from you TODAY hen again you weren't going out, but did.

You're actually disappointed to meet someone from the States - there is nothing new to learn! The sound of all the languages is like a beautiful symphony to me!

(From my Treo)

A Pilgrim's Day

2007-09-12T07:49:00.001-06:00

Up at 5:45 if you want access to the toilet and sink. 6:00 if you want the lights and plastic bags to wake you and you want to prance while waiting for a toilet.

Check to see what hurts less and what might hurt new.

Toilet, teeth, face, hair optional, tape toes. Food. Go. Probably still dark if you avoided toilet prance.

Having checked for yellow arrows the previous night, head out carefully because arrows don't glow in the dark. Walk.

In about an hour turn around and see a glorious sunrise! Have a bite of chocolate! Walk.

Village and cafe con leche. Walk. Smile at locals and say "buenas dias", get "buen camino" and figs. Walk.

See vineyards and churches and very old buildings and children and very old wrinkled people whop will give you blessings.. Eat fabulous food. Walk.

Get to alburgue. Wait for opening. Talk with other pilgrims. Pay 3-5 Euro ($5-7), get bed. Lay out sleeping bag. Get iin line to shower 70-140 wanting same. If staying in churches, sleep on floor (really very nice), and cook and eat and clean up together. Siesta (everything is closed). Walk to see city (always in the old part - beautiful!)

10:00 lights out.

Everydays brings a new miracle to experience! Everyday some new Espanol and food and kindness and old friend and new friend. Absolute joy!

Rinse, repeat!

(From my Treo)

Najera

2007-09-12T05:19:00.000-06:00

Today I was strong.

Later today when I was tired, but holaing and buenas diasing the entire countryside, a local gave me two figs (off his neighbor's tree I think) and walked with me for a bit until we got to his street and then said adios.

I now understand why people do the camino over and over again.

And then there is tapas e cafe con leche!

(From my Treo)

200 km, about 120 miles

2007-09-11T12:24:00.001-06:00

Navarette. Was given my first fresh fig ever! Newtons move over! Special people of the day...Baltazar and Stephen. Tomorrow Najéra.

(From my Treo)

Again

2007-09-10T11:16:00.000-06:00

Another "camino'. I was walking down a side street, not the right one, but knowing that I was heading in the right direction. There is Harold.

In church praying this afternoon, and priest comes over and greets me. Pats both shhoulders and blesses me.
I should have raised my feet perhaps?

(From my Treo)